2-Day Slow Boat to Luang Prabang (Laos): Should you do it?
If you’re taking on Southeast Asia’s banana-pancake trail, chances are you’ve heard of the slow boat to Luang Prabang. This 2-day boat journey from northern Thailand to the UNESCO town of Luang Prabang is iconic among backpackers. Drifting along the Mekong River, you will pass through lush green valleys, remote villages, and (most importantly) across the Thai-Lao border.
But this route isn’t for everyone! In this guide, I’ll share what to expect, how to plan, and if the slow boat is really worth those two days on the river.
Why take the slow boat?
Taking the slow boat is more than just a method of getting from Thailand to Laos. Here’s why I decided to take the slow boat to Luang Prabang:
- Scenic views: It’s a great way to see rural Laos, something you might otherwise have overlooked. Watch the landscape change as the Mekong River winds through stunning landscapes, including dense forests, limestone cliffs, and tiny riverside villages.
- Meet fellow travellers: The slow boat is a great place to meet fellow travellers. You have two days to get to know people before it drops you off at your final destination (Luang Prabang or Huay Xai), meaning you’ll have travel buddies wherever you arrive!
- Relaxed pace: With two days on the water, the slow boat offers a break from the usual backpacking rush. It’s a chance to unwind and relax without roads, chaotic buses, or minivans. Yes, it takes longer but I viewed the experience as an activity rather than time spent travelling.
- Budget-Friendly: Compared to flights or private transport, the slow boat is an affordable way to reach Luang Prabang while getting a mini-tour of the countryside.
Thailand to Laos: Alternatives to the slow boat
If you don’t want to spend two days floating down the Mekong, there are other ways to get from Northern Thailand to Luang Prabang (or vice versa).
- Flight from Chiang Mai to Luang Prabang: The quickest option, with a flight time of about an hour, although this is generally the priciest.
- Bus: You can take an overnight bus from Chiang Mai to Luang Prabang. This takes roughly 20 hours and includes plenty of winding mountain roads.
- Fast Boat: A speedboat option is available for the adventurous (or daredevils!). This covers the same distance as the slow boat but in one day. However, it’s known for being noisy and less uncomfortable.
Alternatively, you could spend a few days at the Huay Xai gibbon experience near the border. It is possible to do both the gibbon experience as well as the 2-day slow boat, however, I arranged my boat/shuttle tickets in Pai, which didn’t allow for a stop.
How to book the Slow Boat + Price
Booking the slow boat to Laos is straightforward and can be done online or in person. Tour operators in Chiang Mai, Pai or Chiang Rai are the most common option, but you can also get tickets in person in the Thai border town of Huay Xai.
If you’re not sure, ask your hostel for assistance, since they’ll be used to requests about booking the slow boat.
- Cost: Expect to pay around 950-1,100 Baht ($27-$32 USD) for a basic ticket, though some packages might include hotel transfers, border assistance, or meals. This doesn’t include any fees for crossing the border in Laos.
- Booking Tips: If you’re looking for the cheapest option available, try booking in Huay Xai on the day you plan to leave. It’s usually a bit cheaper than pre-booking in Chiang Mai.
2-Day Slow Boat Route
This map shows the slow boat route from Northern Thailand to Luang Prabang. This can be split into four sections:
- Starting point (Chiang Mai/Chiang Rai/Pai) to the border town of Chiang Khong
- Chiang Khong to Huay Xai border crossing
- Huay Xai to Pakbeng
- Pakbeng to Luang Prabang
NOTE: You can do the slow boat in the other direction from Luang Prabang to Huay Xai.
1. Getting to Chiang Khong
The first step of this journey is reaching the border town of Chiang Khong. There are buses and minivans from Chiang Mai (5-6 hours), Chiang Rai (2-3 hours), Pai (7 hours) and other areas in Northern Thailand.
If you book as part of a package, a shuttle will usually pick you up and drop you at your accommodation in Chiang Khong. Many of these also stop in Chiang Rai so you can check out the famous White Temple (Wat Rong Khun).
You probably won’t spend much time in Chiang Khong (don’t worry, there’s not much to do). We spent a night and then left to cross the border early in the morning (after experiencing my first-ever earthquake).
2. Crossing the Thai-Lao Border
Many people think you cross the Thai-Lao border in the slow boat, but you actually cross the border before hopping on the boat.
Thankfully the border crossing between Thailand and Laos is pretty easy, whichever direction you are going.
Simply follow these steps:
- Exit Thailand: Head to the Thai Immigration Office in Chiang Khong to get your passport stamped out of Thailand.
- Cross the Friendship Bridge: From the immigration office, take a shuttle bus across the 4th Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge, which connects Chiang Khong (Thailand) and Huay Xai (Laos). The bus costs about 20-30 Baht ($1 USD).
- Enter Laos at Huay Xai: On the Laos side, go through immigration to pay for your visa on arrival. Remember to bring a passport photo and cash for the visa fee (typically $30-$40 USD, depending on nationality). You might have to wait around for a while, but this didn’t take too long (they’re used to tourists).
Once you clear immigration, you’ll officially be in Laos, and ready to begin the slow boat journey down the Mekong!
3. Huay Xai to Pakbeng
The slow boat usually leaves Huay Xai around 11:00 am, so aim to arrive by 10:00 am to secure your ticket if you haven’t pre-booked.
After piling on and finding a seat, it’s time to get going!
As the name suggests, the boat travels at a leisurely pace, covering roughly half the distance to Luang Prabang by the end of the day. You will spend about 6-7 hours on the river, and typically arrive in Pakbeng around 5-6pm
We arrived at the small dock in Pakbeng just as the sun was setting 🌅. Our bags were unloaded and handed to us once we were off.
Overnight in Pakbeng
Pakbeng is a small, unassuming riverside town that is essentially a stopover for travellers. It has basic guesthouses, with prices ranging from $5-$10 USD per night. There are a few small restaurants where you can grab dinner.
Book your accommodation in advance if you’re visiting in peak season, as options are limited and can fill up quickly. Most guesthouses offer Wi-Fi but expect it to be slow.
4. Pakbeng to Luang Prabang
The second day begins in Pakbeng and follows the river to Luang Prabang.
The boat usually leaves around 9:00 am. Grab some breakfast at a local café, and make sure you bring snacks and water for the day.
The second day on the boat is the same setup as Day 1, so get comfortable! Some boats might switch out for larger ones, especially during high season, but the basic seating and setup remain the same.
You will spend around 7-8 hours on the boat, arriving at the Luang Prabang dock around 4-5 pm. The dock is around 10-15 minutes from the main town.
My Experience of the Slow Boat to Luang Prabang
The boat itself is basic but comfortable. Think wooden benches with minimal padding, open sides, and a roof to shield you from the sun. There’s also space at the front to dangle your feet over the side of the boat which was refreshing. Here’s a breakdown of what to expect each day:
- Day 1: The first day is about 6-7 hours on the boat, with a scenic but slow-paced journey down the Mekong. This was probably my preferred day, not because the views were better, but mainly because the novelty was still intact! We arrived in Pakbeng in the dark after watching a spectacular sunset from the back of the boat. There was a power cut in Pakbeng when I was there, so we played cards and drank beer under torchlight.
- Day 2: Another full day on the water, with more stunning views, even fewer signs of civilization, and a sense of calm. Since we knew what to expect, we settled right into the rhythm of the day before looking at the incredible views. As you get closer to Luang Prabang, you’ll see towering cliffs, bamboo forests, and a few larger villages. We arrived around 5 pm, ready to stretch our legs after two full days on the water!
Like any long journey, some people sleep, listen to music, or take photos whilst on the boat. I spent most of my time enjoying the sun, chatting with fellow backpackers, eating and drinking. The time passed quickly, and the sunset at the end of the first day made it worth it!
We were given food on the boat, but this is an option you can pay for.
What to bring on the slow boat?
Given your main holdall will be packed away and inaccessible whilst you are on the move, you will need to pack a day bag with everything you need.
- Valuables: Keep your passport, wallet, and other valuables close, as boats can sometimes get crowded with people moving around.
- Money: In terms of money, it’s best to carry enough cash in Lao Kip for the entire journey, as ATMs are limited along the way. Try to exchange money before you get on the boat.
- Passport: Always best to keep this on you and accessible.
- Water (+ drinks) and snacks: There’s a small shop on the boat, but it’s limited and pricey. Bring snacks, drinks, and a good meal for the journey.
- Camera: It’s a beautiful journey, so you’ll want to snap some photos along the way.
- Phone: Load your phone with podcasts, books, or music to keep yourself entertained. Or simply bring a book! That being said, since Wi-Fi is nonexistent on the river, you could treat this as a chance to disconnect.
- Portable Charger: There are no charging points on the boat so you’ll need this to keep devices alive.
- Suncream: Whilst there is shade on the boat, sometimes you might be stuck in the sun.
- Bring a Cushion or Travel Pillow: Not many people will bring one, but since the wooden benches get uncomfortable, so a cushion will be your best friend.
- Other essentials (e.g. glasses, medication): Depending on your medication, you might need to keep this on you
What to wear for the slow boat to Luang Prabang
Dress in comfortable clothing and dress appropriately for the weather. If you’re visiting in peak season (like myself), this means shorts, a T-shirt and trainers/sandals.
A hat and sunglasses are essential if it’s sunny. You might also consider something light to wrap around your shoulders and protect you from the sun.
Depending on the time of year (i.e. temperatures), you might want a light fleece to hand to keep warm. Particularly in the mornings or evenings if the boat is delayed.
Arriving in Luang Prabang
What happens on arrival in Luang Prabang?
After two days floating down the Mekong, arriving in Luang Prabang might feel disorientating.
You’ll dock just outside Luang Prabang’s center. Grab your belongings as they’re unloaded from the boat.
Tuk-tuks will be waiting to take you into town for about 20,000 Kip ($1-2 USD). Hopefully, you’ll find some people heading in the same direction as you to share transport.
NOTE: If you’ve booked accommodation in Luang Prabang, you may want to let them know your approximate arrival time, as guesthouses sometimes offer pickup services.
What to do in Luang Prabang?
When you arrive in Luang Prabang, it’ll be late afternoon so you won’t have time for much. Arriving at sunset and simply seeing Luang Prabang’s famous French colonial buildings and riverside cafés, is the perfect reward for the journey.
That evening, I recommend checking out the night market for some food. You can explore the delights of Luang Prabang properly the following day.
Where to stay in Luang Prabang?
Luang Prabang is one of the more popular bases for backpackers travelling through Laos. This means you have a huge amount of choice! I stayed in Mad Monkey Luang Prabang which was well developed.
My three top hostels for Luang Prabang are:
Should you do the slow boat? My review
So, is the slow boat worth it? For me, the answer is yes, but it depends on what you’re after.
If you’re not in a rush, you should absolutely consider the slow boat to Luang Prabang. It offers a relaxed, scenic, and affordable way to travel. Along the way, you’ll meet fellow travellers, experience local life along the river, and soak in the slow pace of Southeast Asia.
I made some lifelong friends on that boat, whilst also reaching the next stop on my Southeast Asia route without flying… Which, if you follow this blog, you’ll know I love slow yet scenic overland travel!
However, if you’re short on time or want a smoother journey, flying may be a better option.
Before you go
Thank you for reading my guide to taking the slow boat to Luang Prabang. If guides, itineraries and travel content like this interest you, head over to my blog page to find out more.
If you are new to Matt’s Next Steps, check out the About Me page to find out a bit more about who I am, my travel adventures, and why I wanted to become a travel writer.
Please comment below and let me know your thoughts and experiences, or if there is anything else you want information on.
Happy travelling!
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