Astana Itinerary (3 Days): Complete Day-by-day breakdown
Astana (formerly known as Nur-Sultan) is one of those cities you probably haven’t thought much about – but it might just surprise you. A strange blend of futuristic architecture, wide open boulevards, and traces of Soviet history, Astana isn’t your typical capital city. It’s bold, it’s cold (in winter), and it’s definitely different.
So are you looking for the perfect Astana itinerary? Whether you’re arriving by train from Almaty or flying in from abroad, these three days in Astana are enough to get a feel for Kazakhstan’s quirky and compelling capital. It was my first stop while backpacking Central Asia, and it certainly left its mark on me. So let’s get started!
Astana Itinerary in Short
- Day 1: Central Astana (Nurzhol Boulevard – Baiterek Tower, Nur Astana Mosque, Khan Shatyr)
- Day 2: Eastern Astana (Kazakh Culture – National Museum, Hazret Sultan Mosque, Independence Square, Palace of Peace)
- Day 3: Southern Astana (Grand Mosque, EXPO District, Nur Alem, Megasilk Way)
- Day 4 (optional): Alzhir Gulag or Korgalzhyn National Park
How long to spend in Astana?
3 days is a sufficient amount of time to see Astana. It gives you enough time to explore the city’s main sights, get a feel for its unique vibe, and sample some local cuisine.
Could you squeeze it into two days, if you’re short on time? Probably – but considering the travel time to get here from elsewhere in Kazakhstan, I recommend taking it slow with three.
I ended up staying longer, drawn in by the warmth of the local people, and as a rest stop after visiting Burabay National Park.
When to visit Astana?
Astana is one of the coldest capital cities in the world. Winters are harsh and beautiful, but temperatures regularly drop to -30°C (-22°F).
Whilst the extreme cold is an experience in itself, most people prefer to aim for May to September when the weather is more pleasant. The summer months are warm, dry, and ideal for sightseeing. However, the city is somewhat of a concrete jungle, meaning it’s hard to escape the heat when it’s particularly warm.
Autumn (September to early October) can be lovely too, with golden trees and fewer crowds.
Day 1: Sightseeing Nurzhol Boulevard
Your first day in Astana will cover most of the main sights and iconic architecture of the centre. Thankfully, most are well laid out making them easy to visit one after another.
Begin with Baiterek Tower, the city’s most recognisable landmark. You can go up the tower for panoramic views and even place your hand in a golden imprint of the first president’s hand (a bit odd, but a true Astana experience – there was a queue when I got up there for it!). It costs around 2000 tenge to go up, and is open daily from 10am until 8pm (later during summer).
From here, stroll down Nurzhol Boulevard, the city’s central axis, a long pedestrian zone lined with strange but fascinating buildings. You will pass the Singing Fountain which apparently sings at night (I didn’t notice). Then you’ll find the Ak Orda Presidential Palace – you can’t go in, nor get particularly close to it without police coming up to you, but it’s impressive from the outside.
Around this area, is also the Kazakhstan Central Concert Hall, which is another architecturally impressive building. You could continue walking beyond the river, but I recommend saving this for your second day.Â
Instead, head towards the Nur Astana Mosque, a decadent white and gold mosque in the centre of town. Step inside (shoes off) for a peaceful moment away from the city.
A short distance away is Lovers Park and the Khan Shatyr, a giant transparent tent-shaped mall designed by Norman Foster.
It’s more interesting for its structure than its shops, but there’s a beach resort with sand from the Maldives as well as a rollercoaster and other activities inside. The best view of sunset is also from the Khan Shatyr as the sun glows through and illuminates the building. Around here you will see a hubbub of life as people get ready to go out for the evening.
For dinner, I highly recommend eating dinner at Navat nearby. It’s a chain restaurant, but is known to be a great introduction to Central Asian cuisine.
NOTE: Keep a lookout for any performances at the Astana Opera or Capital Circus. Both are located nearby and are fun ways to spend an evening.
Day 2: Kazakh Culture
Dedicate your second day to digging into the culture and history of Kazakhstan. Start at the National Museum of the Republic of Kazakhstan – it’s modern, well laid-out, and packed with everything from ancient artefacts to exhibits on Kazakh independence. If you’re staying in the centre (near Baiterek), I recommend taking a taxi. The museum costs 1700 tenge, and no cameras or bags are allowed in (lockers are free).
Next, visit the Hazret Sultan Mosque, one of the largest mosques in Central Asia (though the largest is still to come). The interior is stunning and peaceful, and respectful visitors are welcome.
From there, head to Independence Square and the Kazakh Eli monument, where you’ll find wide-open plazas and some impressive public art. One of my favourites, was the Kazakh Flag installation – something I returned in the evening for to see at night.
If you’re up for more, walk or take a taxi to the Palace of Peace and Reconciliation, a giant glass pyramid that hosts conferences, exhibitions, and cultural events. I highly recommend waiting for a tour around the building as it is incredibly interesting, and one of the most unique buildings I’ve ever visited – each floor has its own meaning!
After this, visit the stunning Catedrala Adormirea Maicii Donmului. This Russian Orthodox cathedral has one of the most beautiful interiors I’ve ever seen! I personally prefer it to Zenkov’s Cathedral in Almaty! It’s a little out of the way, but easily reached by Yandex, or you can walk a bit further!
Day 3: Southern Astana
Spend your final day taking it a little slower. Start with a morning stroll along the Ishim River promenade, where you can watch locals fishing, cycling, or just enjoying the open space.
Afterward, head to the Grand Mosque, branded as the largest mosque in Central Asia! You can easily get lost in here as it’s so big! If you want a view of the mosque from above, and a look over the surrounding landscape, I recommend heading up one of the minarets. It’s a short lift ride, and they will provide you with sliders.
Walk back north towards the the EXPO District, home to the futuristic Nur Alem pavilion (the world’s largest spherical building). The area was built for the 2017 World Expo and still feels ahead of its time.
Around here is also the Megasilk Way shopping centre. I stopped off here to grab a few local snacks before continuing towards the Botanical Gardens.
In the evening, eat at Tary Astana. Whilst it’s technically a coffee shop, by Western standards it is a restaurant. Then head over to one of the many bars that Astana has to offer. My personal favourite bar was Temple – a hidden, experimental cocktail bar.
Day 4 (Optional): Day Trips from Astana
If you have more time in Astana, or race through everything else in the itinerary, you can look a bit further afield.
ALZHIR Memorial Museum: located just outside of town (40 minutes), offers insight into a darker chapter of Kazakh history. Here you can enter the Gulag, to learn about the wives of Stalin’s enemies of the state.
If this history like this interests you, a trip further south to Karaganda is also worth a stop since it’s the home of Karlag – one of the largest gulag labour camps in Kazakhstan.
Alternatively, you can take a day-trip to Korgalzhyn Nature Reserve to see flamingos and other species. This UNESCO reserve, is some distance from Astana and is best visited as part of a tour. I didn’t visit because of the hefty prices, but it’s worth considering if you’re a keen birder.
Where to stay in Astana:
The tourism industry hasn’t exploded in Astana yet, meaning there are not many hostels to choose from. Instead, there’s a strong business and industrial influence, so accommodation options are largely hotels. However, here are my top picks:
- The Place Astana (budget hostel). Not my favourite place I’ve ever stayed, but it’s functional and very central. Be aware, they only accept cash.
- Hampton by Hilton (mid-range)
- The Ritz Carlton (Luxury)
Where to go after Astana?
If you’re exploring more of Kazakhstan, you have a couple of choices for where to visit after Astana.
The most popular option is heading south towards Almaty, the second biggest city. You can either fly direct or get a long train through the Kazakh steppe.
Alternatively, you could head further north to the popular local resort of Burabay. This National Park is home to a lake (Borovoe), as well as mountains and pines as far as the eye can see! Once you’ve seen Burabay, most travellers will return to Astana before heading south to Almaty anyway.
Tips for Astana
Given Astana was my first stop in the whole of Central Asia, I had to get up to speed pretty quickly. Here are a few things which are helpful in Astana:
- Download 2Gis: This maps application is the primary map used in Kazakhstan. Google Maps is fine, but 2Gis is more accurate, with many places only showing on this app.
- Use Yandex: The primary taxi-hailing application, Yandex makes it super easy to get around Astana. This is helpful for Astana as the distances are deceptively big!
- Card is king, but carry cash: I was surprised to find that card is so widely accepted in Kazakhstan, however Astana uses cash a little more than Almaty so it’s worth holding a small amount.
- Comfy shoes and water. The city is super spread out and walking distances are deceiving, so staying comfortable is important.
- Try Kazakh food: beshbarmak (boiled meat with noodles), kurt (dried salty cheese), and shubat (fermented camel milk, if you’re brave). Or something safer like lagman (noodles) or plov (rice).
- Favourite restaurants: Navat, Line Brew (fancier), Tangiers, Tary Astana.
- Check out local cafes and chaikhanas (tea houses). Astana has a growing hipster cafe scene that contrasts with its government-heavy image.
- Give the capital a chance: Astana might not be the first place you think of for a city break and it probably won’t be love at first sight… but that’s part of its charm. It’s a place of strange contrasts – glass pyramids next to Soviet-era housing, endless boulevards meeting open steppe. Give it a chance, and it just might surprise you.
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