Behind Bars: Visiting Iwahig Prison and Penal Farm, Puerto Princesa

When most people think of Palawan and the Philippines, the first thing that usually comes to mind is luscious, white-sand beaches and crystal-clear seas. So, when I told my family that I’d visited the Iwahig Prison and Penal Farm in the Philippines, they were quite surprised (and concerned)!

But this Filipino prison is different from most other prisons. In fact, it’s the only one of its kind in Southeast Asia. The Iwahig Prison and Penal Farm is an open-air jail that allows prisoners to roam free (mostly). Its focus is on rehabilitation rather than punishment; making prisoners want to stay at the correctional facility, rather than locking them in.

This special scenario has created an environment where people can visit the prison, gain insight into prison life and even speak with the inmates. Standing out as a unique and educational experience far removed from visiting the Philippines’ usual highlight reel, I had to check it out!

This guide will cover everything you need to know about visiting the Iwahig Prison and Penal Farm in Puerto Princesa. Use the contents page below to skip to a particular section, or continue reading for the complete guide.

About Iwahig Prison and Penal Farm

The Iwahig Prison and Penal Farm, also known as ‘The Prison Without Walls’, is a prison in Puerto Princesa (Palawan). The facility was originally established in 1902 during the American occupation of the Philippines. In 1906, it was transformed into the central compound of the ‘free-living’ penal colony.

Since then, the penal settlement has grown from 22 acres to now over 70,000 acres! The number of prisoners within Iwahig has similarly increased, now holding around 5000 inmates. As well as holding many ex-prisoners and their families who have chosen to stay within the facility.

Within the settlement, inmates are responsible for a variety of workloads, as they learn skills that can be used upon release. The most popular vocational activities include farming, carpentry, fishing, and forestry. Many inmates also earn money through sales or entertainment.

Not all inmates have this level of freedom. There are different stages of security clearance across the complex. New inmates, who can be recognised by their orange clothing, are kept behind bars until they’ve built up trust. Meanwhile, working-class and minimum security inmates are assigned blue shirts or wear their own clothing, and can roam more freely.

Why visit Iwahig Prison and Penal Farm?

If you decide to visit the Iwahig Prison and Penal Farm in the Philippines, you will likely be asked why.

So here are my thoughts…

Firstly, it’s unique. Where else would you get the opportunity to visit a prison like this? Particularly one that’s overseas and where you can speak to the prisoners.

Similarly, visiting the Iwahig prison is different from any other activity or experience in Palawan. The many beautiful beaches in the Philippines blur into one, but this is something that will stand out as memorable.

There’s also the opportunity to learn while visiting. Not only will you gain an insight into one aspect of the area’s culture and history, but you can also learn about the operations of the prison and farm itself.

Being able to speak to prisoners also provided me with a better understanding of the people and motives behind the crimes being committed. Engaging with locals and hearing their stories spoke volumes about Filipino society, and provided a different perspective which has helped shape my perception of the Philippines.

NOTE: You’re welcome to ask any question you want. But remember, inmates aren’t obligated to tell the truth, nor are they obligated to speak to you at all. Be mindful of this when asking questions.

How to get to the Iwahig Prison and Penal Farm?

The prison is located in Barangay Iwahig in the province of Palawan, Philippines. The nearest city is Puerto Princesa, which is approximately 15km away.

The best way to get to the prison is by a private vehicle such as a tricycle or minicab. Tricycles are easy to flag down in Puerto Princesa and should cost no more than P750 for a round-trip. The journey should take 30-45 minutes to the entrance point on the National Highway.

I took a jeepney out of town and picked up a tricycle for P100. This worked out cheaper but took significantly longer than it should’ve done… I wouldn’t recommend doing this!

At the entrance, you will pass through Charcoal Gate, which is the first checkpoint. Then follow the straight road for 2.5km into the main facility.

NOTE: You won’t find tricycles to pick you up on the way back, so it’s best if you ask if your driver to wait for you. Or ask your driver to transport you around the facility as it’s huge!

What to expect at the Iwahig Prison in Puerto Princesa

On arrival at the first checkpoint, everyone was required to sign in so that the authorities can track who was on-site. Entrance to the Iwahig Prison is free.

From here, we rode through beautiful, green farmland and headed towards the centre of the prison. On the right, we could see the minimum security compound. The medium and maximum security compounds are elsewhere on site.

You can explore much of the Gusaling Pampamahalaan Central Sub-Colony on foot. The area has a large courtyard surrounded by various buildings including housing complexes, a hospital, an elementary school and most other premises you’d expect to find in a small commune.

The main focal point of the area is the recreation hall. This large space is used for a variety of activities and is probably where visitors spend the most amount of time.

Inmates earn money selling souvenirs and ‘hand-crafted’ items here. These include keyrings, pens, wallets, textiles, home decor items, instruments (e.g. rain sticks), clothing (e.g. native hats), and more!

I’d argue that most of the items weren’t handmade. Especially since you can find similar products in town (at a cheaper price)! That being said, buying their products is a great way to support the prisoners and the community.

NOTE: I still wonder where the inmates get these ‘handmade’ items from. And therefore, who the money goes to when they’re sold.

Inmates also perform dance routines in the hall of the Central Compound for tour groups. Unfortunately, I missed this but you can read about Rose’s experience in her blog post.

With more than 80% of the Filipino population Roman Catholic, it was no surprise to see a church on site. Despite many of the hardships that these inmates have faced, many still regularly pray and remain close to their religion.

From reading other blog posts about the Iwahig Prison and Penal Farm, it sounds like everyone’s experiences are slightly different.

Meeting the prisoners

The highlight for most, including myself, was the opportunity to speak and interact with the inmates. I found that most were happy to tell stories; explain what they did and why they did it; and speak about their lives. They were friendly and keen to talk to visitors as it provides variety to their days; the opportunity to practice languages; and a way to earn some money.

Having spoken to a handful of minimum-security prisoners, the crimes they had committed varied from drug-related crime to robbery and violence. Though the crimes didn’t follow a common theme, I found that they often related back to desperation and lifestyle.

I was taken aback by the down-to-earth nature and calmness of many of the prisoners when talking about their crimes. They spoke with regret and an understanding of their mistakes. For many, now their priorities are based primarily on their religion and on supporting family.

Whilst the interactions I had with the minimum security inmates were wholely positive, I found a marked difference when speaking from the medium security compound. Speaking through the prison bars, the desperation for money was more apparent as hands were reaching out and conversation seemed rushed and less genuine.

NOTE: I only spoke to a couple of prisoners here, so I don’t want to generalise the intentions of all the higher-security inmates.

Balasahan Natural Pools

3km north of the main compound is the Balasahan Natural Pools. This small, natural, swimming area is surrounded by greenery and fed by a small waterfall and provides a great place to cool down. Though somewhat separate from the rest of the prison, the pools still belong to the penal colony. Entry costs P10.

FAQs

Is visiting the Iwahig Prison Safe?

Yes, it is safe to visit the Iwahig Prison and Penal Farm. While it is full of convicted felons who are largely free to wander the grounds, they welcome tourists as a source of income to help them to support their families.

There are guards around the compound that monitor numbers and monitor the gates. Each day they do a headcount of prisoners and ensure that inmates are back by 17:00 each day.

Do you need a tour to visit the Iwahig Prison?

You can visit the prison both as part of a tour or independently.

I chose to visit Iwahig Prison and Penal Farm independently. This was primarily due to last-minute planning, but it worked out cheaper than booking a tour.

That being said, having a guide to talk to you about the history of the penal institution would’ve been valuable.

How much does it cost to visit the Iwahig Prison and Penal Farm?

It is currently free to enter the prison. I have heard that the authorities are considering charging an entry fee to the prison to help support the inmates.

Takeaways from the Iwahig Prison

I wasn’t sure what to expect when visiting Iwahig prison in Puerto Princesa. After all, visiting an active prison isn’t something that most folks do regularly!

Beforehand, I was feeling a range of emotions, from apprehension to curiosity and excitement. In hindsight, there was no need for this fear or excitement. I think it’s important to remind yourself that these are the lives of real people, not just a tourist attraction! The visit (at least from my perspective) was a way to engage with the people; have conversations that you wouldn’t otherwise; and give back to the community.

Having never visited a prison before, nor spoken to any convicted criminals, I came away from the experience with an insight into something otherwise unknown to me. It opened my eyes to different ways of punishment and rehabilitation, and provided a first-hand insight into Penal colonies function.

The inmates were, for the most part, good representatives for this unique prison and penal farm system, demonstrating how it can work and be beneficial to society. In doing so, the inmates reminded me of the very human traits that are often disassociated with those branded as ‘criminals’. Every single person held there is an individual with their own views and stories to tell.

I enjoyed the few hours spent at the prison conversing with the inmates, but remain mindful that some still try to use the system to make money out of visitors.

Overall, I found the visit to be more than just an excursion, but also a window into people’s lives, mistakes, and living situations. It was an opportunity to engage with the locals and was very insightful. If you’re passing through Puerto Princesa and don’t mind sacrificing a potential beach day for something more gritty and real, I suggest you pay a visit!

Before you go

Thank you for reading my travel guide on visiting Iwahig Prison and Penal Farm. If guides, itineraries, and travel content like this interest you, head over to my blog page to find out more.

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Happy travelling!