Chicken Buses in Central America
If you’re backpacking the Gringo Trail through Latin America, there’s a good chance you’ll come across the famous chicken bus. Known for their vibrant colours, loud music, and packed aisles, chicken buses are a staple of travel in this region. So much so that they became an integral part of my backpacking trip through the Central America.
While chicken buses in Central America may seem daunting at first, riding them is an adventure you shouldn’t miss. This guide will tell you everything you need to know to hop aboard, blend in, and even enjoy the ride!
What is a chicken bus?
Chicken buses are repurposed American school buses, often hand-painted in bright colours and decked out with anything from religious slogans to funky decorations (though this depends on which country you’re in). After racking up the miles in the US or Canada, they find a new lease of life in Central America where they transport anyone (and anything) across towns and cities.
They’re not just a cheap way to get from A to B (though they serve that purpose very well). Chicken buses are a right of passage for any budget backpacker travelling Central America, offering an authentic insight into whichever region you’re exploring!
Their name originates from the fact that these buses will carry anything and everything. And whilst chickens aren’t always involved, there might be the rare occasion you’ll spot an animal on board! Though mostly, you can expect them to be packed with people, bags of produce, and local goods – a true slice of local life on wheels.
How to use chicken buses in Central America?
Using a chicken bus is simple once you get the hang of it, but it can feel overwhelming at first. Here’s a quick breakdown:
- Find the Right Bus: Most buses don’t have timetables, but you can find out about routes and schedules from locals, fellow travellers, or station attendants. Many cities have central bus terminals where you’ll find multiple chicken buses.
- Flag It Down: In some areas, you can flag down a chicken bus from the roadside by waving, and it’ll stop for you if there’s room.
- Get On and Find a Seat: Once on board, you may find people packed tightly or even standing. Grab any available seat or prepare to stand in the aisle.
- Pay the Fare: Fares are usually collected by an assistant (known locally as the cobrador), who usually collects money once everyone is seated and the bus is moving. Occasionally you will need to pay as you board the bus (I experienced this in El Salvador).
- Get off at your destination: The driver should know your destination, but head down to the front of the bus if you’re not sure if they’re going to stop.
TOP TIP: If you’ve never tried a chicken bus before, the best place to start is at a bus station where there are plenty of people to ask! If you’re waiting at a bus stop in the middle of nowhere, you might start to doubt whether it’s coming (I know I did)!
How much are chicken buses in Central America?
Chicken buses are renowned for being incredibly cheap; a big draw for budget travellers like myself.
Prices depend on the length of your journey and the country you are in. El Salvador has one of the cheaper fares, whilst Belize is more expensive. Wherever you are, it’ll be cheaper than booking a shuttle.
To generalise… a few dollars can take you a fair distance. Expect to pay about $1-3 for trips that could last a couple of hours. My cheapest chicken bus fares have been less than $0.20, whilst my most expensive won’t have been more than $3.
NOTE: Be sure to have small cash ready, as fare collectors might not always have change. Or at least, that’s what they might tell you…
Why take the chicken bus?
Besides saving money, there are plenty of reasons why you should take a chicken bus!
Here’s why you might want to choose this unique mode of transport:
- Affordable Travel: Chicken buses offer unbeatable rates, especially for long journeys that would be much pricier in a taxi or private shuttle.
- Experience Local Culture and Adventure: Riding a chicken bus is an opportunity to meet locals, hear local music, and get a close-up look at daily life.
- Eco-Friendly Option: Repurposing these buses is environmentally friendly, giving these vehicles a second life.
- Avoid the tourist trail: Getting onto chicken buses takes you away from shuttles full of other backpackers.
Are chicken buses safe?
Safety on chicken buses can vary. I’ve experienced chicken buses in various countries across Central America and never had an issue (besides breaking down)! Unfortunately, that’s not to say that things can’t go wrong…
The following points aren’t intended to scare, but it’s good to be informed.
Chicken bus robberies
Unfortunately, robberies can (and do) occur on chicken buses. While these incidents aren’t the norm, they’re worth being aware of, especially in areas with higher crime rates. Honduras and Guatemala are where I’ve heard the most stories.
The most common threat is pickpocketing which is more common on tourist trails where buses are packed with easier targets. When you’re distracted getting on and off the bus, someone might be able to grab something from your pocket.
Backpacks can also be vulnerable if stored in overhead racks, under seats, or at the back of the bus. I’ve even heard of someone slicing open bags with a knife.
Though rare, armed robberies do happen, usually on long routes or remote roads. During these situations, it’s safest to cooperate with demands. Avoid drawing attention to any valuables and always keep your passport, cash, and essential documents secure but out of sight.
Chicken bus accidents
Another concern with chicken buses is the risk of road accidents. Particularly given the seeming lack of road safety precautions compared to Europe or North America.
Chicken buses don’t have seat belts; drivers can be overconfident; and sometimes they speed to keep to schedule. This combination on sometimes tricky roads (e.g. sweeping mountain passes) can seem dangerous.
Thankfully, most of the time buses stop regularly and remain slow. And if they ever get into a collision, they’re heavy and large enough that they’ll usually come off better.
Staying safe on chicken buses in Central America
Despite these risks, many travellers safely use chicken buses every day. Here are a few tips to help you stay as safe as possible:
- Keep Valuables Close: Ideally, you should store your valuables in a secure bag on your lap. Avoid carrying your wallet in easy-to-reach pockets, and consider a money belt for extra security. With your larger bags, try to keep them somewhere you can see and feel them.
- Hold On Tight: These buses move fast and often take sharp turns, so hold onto something if you’re standing.
- Avoid Night Travel: Daytime travel is generally safer, as roads can be trickier to navigate at night and crime risks are slightly higher.
Tips for using on chicken buses
- Carry small change: sorting out larger bills on the bus is difficult, and they’ll probably say they don’t have the right change.
- Give yourself plenty of time: Chicken buses often take longer than expected (call it Central American time). Impromptu stops, traffic and breaking down are just a few (of the many) reasons for delays. Never plan your day to the exact time when using chicken buses!
- Bring water: Without air conditioning, it can get hot and sweaty when the buses get crowded. Stay hydrated (but not so much that you need the toilet).
- Control your bladder: There are no toilets on board, so try to go beforehand.
- Keep your valuables close: As mentioned, pickpockets have been known to operate on chicken buses, and they may target travellers with money.
- Bring sunglasses: I was once on a bus where the window was stuck open – having sunglasses was very handy to protect from the wind and dust coming in.
- Don’t wear white: buses aren’t cleaned frequently meaning they can be dusty. Wear colours to hide the dirt!
- Enjoy the ride: Riding the chicken bus is an adventure in itself. Sit back and enjoy the experience.
My experience on chicken buses in Central America
I’ve travelled on chicken buses in Belize, Guatemala, El Salvador and Nicaragua, each experience slightly different from the next. Besides the bumpy ride and no aircon, you will never have two journeys the same!
My takeaway from them overall is that they have their time and place. Sometimes chicken buses are best for the situation (and my budget), whilst other times a shuttle or taxi is the obvious decision. Here’s a look at my country-specific thoughts/experiences:
Chicken buses in Belize
My first chicken bus (ever) was on my journey from Caye Caulker to San Ignacio in Belize. Admittedly it broke down around 20 minutes into the journey from Belize City… But I was hooked!
The remainder of my journeys in Belize were simple and largely short given the shorter distances involved. From the quick and easy bus to Xunantunich from San Ignacio, to navigating Belmopan bus terminal and taking the bus to the Belize-Guatemala border, my experience was largely positive.
Using chicken buses in Belize is a great way to save money in a country that is otherwise somewhat expensive.
Chicken buses in Guatemala
In Guatemala, I found more of a mixture of decorated and non-decorated chicken buses, rather than the standard school buses!
Distances between backpacker hot-spots were further, so I tended more towards shuttles. For example, I’d never try to get from Antigua or Flores to Lanquin via chicken bus as it’s arduous enough via shuttle!
The Antigua to Lake Atitlan chicken bus (and vice versa) is the most popular and well-trodden route between, and one of the only longer journeys I’d recommend. Panajachel in Lake Atitlan is a large(ish) bus terminal so most journeys linking the two backpacking hot-spots will arrive/depart from here.
Around town and more locally, chicken buses were just the same as Belize – hopping on, paying your dues and hopping off at your destination.
TOP TIP: If you’re looking to go from Flores to Tikal by chicken bus, it is possible… but not for sunrise! Local buses often don’t run super early, and are unreliable in timings. Either take the chicken bus the day before and stay overnight, or get a shuttle!
Chicken buses in El Salvador
The chicken buses in El Salvador were my favourite. Probably the cheapest I experienced and also the best decorated!
Exploring the Ruta de las Flores on the bus system was so enjoyable. The distances were a bit longer but changing buses and exploring the full network was great. I found that drivers drove the countryside roads faster (particularly downhill).
Chicken buses in Nicaragua
Chicken buses in Nicaragua were largely similar. I found myself waiting longer at bus terminals here, but that could simply be bad luck. Whilst most chicken buses in Central America wait for it to fill up, Nicaragua really packed out their buses!
Because of this, it was also a regular occurrence for local vendors to come on board to sell their products. Drinks and snacks I can understand, but battery packs and headphones I’m unlikely to purchase here!
Southern Nicaragua is pretty well-connected by public buses altogether. If you use the chicken bus a lot, be prepared for a lot of changes in Rivas (between Ometepe, Granada and San Juan del Sur) and the chaos of the terminal there!
Final Thoughts: Chicken Buses in Central America
Chicken buses are one of the most affordable, adventurous, and immersive ways to travel in Central America.
They may not be luxurious, but they’re a reliable and truly memorable part of any backpacking journey. So, next time you find yourself on a dusty roadside in Guatemala or Honduras, don’t hesitate to flag down a chicken bus — you’re in for an experience unlike any other!
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