Earthquake in Chiang Khong: Shaky-shaky wakey-wakey!
Not to give the story away, but this post is about my experience of the 6.1 magnitude earthquake in Chiang Khong in 2019.
One thing you should know about me: I am incredibly accident-prone. Stupid stuff always happens to me. Maybe I’m drawn to it, maybe it’s drawn to me, or maybe it’s just a coincidence.
So I was pretty proud of myself for making it to my second week of backpacking through Southeast Asia without too many difficulties!
All was going well.
I hadn’t fallen from a scooter; got alcohol poisoning; been pickpocketed or scammed (that I know of); got sunburn; been tricked by a ladyboy; or any of the other stereotypes that my family and friends had warned me about before I left.
I had successfully made it through the first few steps of the “Banana-Pancake Trail.” From Bangkok to Chiang Mai, from Chiang Mai to Pai and I was on my way to the Laotian border where I would be catching the slow boat to Luang Prabang for the next two days. Whoop whoop!
After getting the dreaded last pick of the minibus seats, I spent the next 3 hours at the very back of a packed minibus getting crushed by everyone else’s bags.
It wasn’t the best.
However, it was made even worse when the convoy of minibusses pulled in at the side of the road, told us all to get out, and shouted at us in Thai. Strangely enough, nobody understood a word they were saying, despite the increasing volume of their voices.
For some reason, swapping minibusses (leaving our bags in the other vehicle) seemed to make them stop shouting. So after almost an hour of waiting around, I hesitantly hopped on the new bus and we were on our way again.
To this day, I still have no clue what that debacle was about. Maybe the drivers just fancied switching up their passengers?
I was just glad to be reunited with my belongings when we arrived at our rather dodgy-looking hostel in the distinctly empty town of Chiang Khong.
Luckily there was a 7-Eleven. We grabbed some beers and played cards into the night. I set my alarm and went to bed.
The next morning I woke up early.
But this wasn’t because of my alarm…
Instead, I felt a gentle rocking motion and a distant rumble. Dazed and tired, I rolled over and went back to sleep.
A short while later, I was once again rudely awoken. Like the previous occasion, there was some noise and a bit of a wobble – only it was stronger this time.
I figured that the noise and rocking must’ve been the building site next door to the hostel starting their work before the heat of the day. Nobody else in my dorm room stirred so I went back to sleep again.
Then at 6:50am a much stronger, more prolonged shake occurred.
I sat bolt upright! Put my feet on the floor and looked across the room.
My friend across the room had done exactly the same. We just stared at each other. Looking across at our American friend in the middle who remained blissfully unaware and fast asleep as the building we were in groaned and wobbed.
The only way I could describe it was like a really atmospheric, slow-motion sensation as the building slowly began shuddering and grumbling. Meanwhile, my mind was running at double speed wondering what was going on!
“Is the building going to fall down?”
“Is this the end?”
“What if this is all in my head?”
“Isn’t it really awful that seemingly serious situations give me the urge to laugh?” I asked myself.
The 6.1 magnitude earthquake lasted for around a minute (though felt like longer) increasing in power and speed before starting to dissipate.
I’m not sure how I looked, but I imagine it to be pretty similar to that of my friend, Jake. Who sat with a look of both perplexion and fear (with a little dreariness thrown in too)!
There was no chance I could go to sleep after that!
But what is the best thing to do after an earthquake? Is it likely to happen again? Is it safe to shower? What happens if I strip down to shower and then the building starts to collapse?
I had the quickest shower of my life, got dressed, and went upstairs expecting to see lots of people talking about the tremor that we’d just experienced.
But nope. Not a soul in sight!
I sipped on my coffee, overlooking the Mekong River, and waited for everyone else to gradually materialise from the beds so we could talk about what in the hell just happened!
One by one, people came upstairs. To my surprise only around three-quarters of people felt it. Every single one of them was utterly shocked that the other 25% didn’t wake up!
Surprise surprise, it was all the heavy drinkers from the night before and earthquake-prone Americans that slept through the ordeal.
Many of them seemed to think that the rest of us were making it up! That is until we showed them the Google page showing that the three largest earthquakes of the year had just hit Thailand.
Anyway, we got on the boat that morning. Earthquakes appeared to be the only topic of conversation.
I heard plenty about tsunamis on the Mekong and the boat surfing to Luang Prabang down a huge wave. As badass as that would’ve been, the slow boat still took the full 8 hours to reach our next stop (still thoroughly enjoyable though)!
As we arrived in the small town of Pakbeng in Laos, it was pretty much dark. And it was clear to see (or not so clear) that they were still experiencing some of the effects of the earthquake: a town-wide power cut.
As a group of people primarily in their twenties, it was a nightmare. What on earth are people to do without WiFi for an eight-hour boat ride AND THEN a night in a small town?!
Don’t you worry, we found plenty to do.
I had quite possibly the first candlelit dinner of my life and then explored the “shops”.
Turns out you can get a bottle of really, really awful rum for less than £2! And thankfully the rum caused us more damage than the three largest earthquakes of the year in Thailand did.
But let’s just say, the second day on the slow boat was a bit rougher than the first!
Before you go
Thank you for reading my story on surviving the earthquake in Chiang Khong, Thailand. If guides, itineraries and travel content like this interest you, head over to my blog page to find out more.
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Happy travelling!
6 Comments
Resolve To Wander
July 13, 2020 at 1:20 pmStory for you. I will keep it short.
Lived in Las Vegas for five years and often hiked (access right from my back door) and the desert is one of the most surprising places to visit because of how isolated you can feel. The absence of noise can be very unnerving. Throw in that the setting sun can throw werid shadows and make and jagged rock look monstrous. This is all a perfect set up for your mind playing tricks on you. And my mind did (perhaps…) it’s getting dark out and I start to head back. I’m completely alone, had not seen any other hikers that day. A small amount of rocks roll down the mountain in front of me. When I look up nothing. But that odd tingle on the back of your neck will always suggest you’re being watched. But I keep going. More stones fall. I walk faster. Now at this point I have to take a trail that winds back a bit to go over a steep drop. I turn back and catch a bit of movement out of the corner of my eye. Just a flash. But enough to make me uneasy. There are a ton of small caves pockmarking the stone face and my eyes are fixed on all of them. Then an…odd shout comes from above me. It echoed loudly and searched and searched and searched but could not see any other hikers on the trails. Needless to say I rushed along the trail at ac steady jog. All the while feeling glares on the back of my neck.
Matt
August 1, 2020 at 1:59 pmThe feeling of being followed is the worst! Sadly you’ll never know if someone was there or not.
JoJo Hall
July 14, 2020 at 10:07 pmQuite the post, I’m glad to see that you’re ok!
Matt
August 1, 2020 at 1:57 pmThank you!
Lauren & Lottie
July 16, 2020 at 7:29 pmThat sounds like one crazy minibus ride, I would have definitely been worried about my luggage too. I can’t believe some people slept through the earthquake! Glad everyone was ok.
Matt
August 1, 2020 at 1:55 pmStill amazed that people were oblivious to it! And there was me thinking that shaking someone awake is the best way to wake someone up… I guess some people are just immune!