Travel / United Kingdom

Hiking Pen yr Ole Wen from Lake Ogwen

Hiking Pen yr Ole Wen from Lake Ogwen

Pen yr Ole Wen is arguably one of the most underrated of all the mountains in Snowdonia National Park. Standing at 978m tall, it is the 7th highest peak in Snowdonia (and Wales). This makes it comparatively quiet compared with the likes of Mount Snowdon and Glyder Fach. Don’t let this take away from the feat of climbing it though, after all, Pen yr Ole Wen stands as tall as Scafell Pike in England, and the hike can be quite exhausting! 

This guide will cover everything you need to know about hiking Pen yr Ole Wen from Lake Ogwen. The route itself can be described as an extension of the Llyn Ogwen circular walk which starts from the south side of Lake Ogwen. The route is extremely adaptable with several other potential routes that also incorporate Pen yr Ole Wen. 

About Pen yr Ole Wen

Height in Metres: 978m 

Height in Feet: 3209 feet

Prominence: 45m

Prominence in Feet: 148 feet

Range: Carneddau (of which Pen yr Ole Wen is the southernmost peak)

Parent Peak: Carnydd Dafydd (3rd highest peak)

Translates to: Head of the white slope

Hiking Pen yr Ole Wen Route

Start of Pen Yr Ole Wen Hike

Park by Llyn Ogwen and make your way to the starting point of Tal y Llyn Ogwen farm on the east side of the lake. Tal y Llyn does not appear on several maps; instead look for Glan Dena, which is just beside the small farm. There is a paid car park by the hostel on the west side, however, free parking is available along the road (A5). Please be aware that there are ‘no parking’ signs in some sections. I don’t want you to be getting towed because that’s just not ideal. 

Walk along to the right of the farmhouse and across the cattle grid. Look out for some of the National Trust signposts – you will want to be following the red arrows for now. 

Ascending Pen yr Ole Wen

On the ascent, follow the stream (Afon Lloer) until just before you reach the beautiful lake of Ffynnon Lloer. This ascent is gentle and scenic with grassy hills and flowing water all around. The path frequently disappears, but as long as you follow the water source, you will be okay.

Hiking Pen yr Ole Wen in Snowdonia
Following one of many streams on the ascent.
Hiking Pen yr Ole Wen in Snowdonia
The path off to the left as the peak comes into view.

Once you veer off to the left, there is a short scramble up the slope to the first peak. This is the most challenging part of the whole ascent as it is quite steep.

Hiking Pen yr Ole Wen in Snowdonia
Scrambling up the toughest section.

From this peak, there is a short ascent to the summit of Pen yr Ole Wen. All this way you will have stunning views back down over the lake of Ffynnon Lloer.

Ffynnon Lloer from Pen Yr Ole Wen
Looking down on Ffynnon Lloer just before the summit of Pen yr Ole Wen.

Pen yr Ole Wen Summit

Once at the peak, you will have fantastic 360-degree views (weather dependent of course). You will be able to see the sea, the city of Bangor as well as Puffin Island just off the coastline. 

Hiking Pen yr Ole Wen in Snowdonia
Looking over the rest of the Carneddau range with Bangor in the distance on the left.

The route up Pen yr Ole Wen is often combined with a walk across some of the other peaks in the Carneddau range. For example, you can follow the ridge along to Pen yr Ole Wen’s parent peak, Carnydd Dafydd (see above). 

The summit itself is open and spacious and is often quieter than other peaks, making it perfect for a sunny day. It can feel exposed when the wind blows which is perhaps one reason why some people don’t stop for long at the top of Pen yr Ole Wen.

From the top, you will also be able to look back down at Lake Ogwen as well as other lakes sitting further up the mountains such as Lake Idwal. Looking beyond Lake Ogwen you can see Glyder Fach and Devil’s Kitchen – two other famous hiking routes. 

Descending Pen yr Ole Wen

For the purpose of this post, I will continue describing this circular route coming back towards the hostel and Lake Ogwen rather than any walks further into the Carneddau range. 

As you begin to make your way back down, the path isn’t necessarily that obvious. You should continue to the other side of the peak that you arrived from. Then veer to the left. It is helpful to use Lake Ogwen as a reference.

Hiking Pen yr Ole Wen in Snowdonia
The beginning of the path back down looking over both Llyn Ogwen (left) and Llyn Idwal (right).

The path down can be quite steep and a bit of a scramble, but the views are worth it! You might even be able to spot your car depending on where it’s parked (a little tip for those of you wanting to call shotgun)!

As you make your way down, the hostel should come into view. Continue heading down in that direction until you reach the bottom, remaining careful of any loose rocks.

Notes on Hiking Pen yr Ole Wen

Near the hostel on the west side of Lake Ogwen, there is a cafe. From here you can buy snacks and a refreshing drink. The staff are also very friendly and knowledgeable about the area should you have any questions! Toilet facilities and bins are also available.

The Red Arrows can frequently be seen in the valley practicing. Keep an eye (and an ear) out for them!

If you would prefer to avoid a precarious scramble down you can either go back the way you came or you can do the whole route in reverse (clockwise). This would start at the youth hostel on the west side of Lake Ogwen, then scrambling up Pen yr Ole Wen and a more relaxed route for the descent.

If you don’t have a map and compass to navigate. You can follow this route using my favourite backpacking app: maps.me or simply by taking screenshots of this post and following the steps. Similarly, a route can be downloaded in advance from apps like Komoot

Hiking Pen yr Ole Wen in Snowdonia
The start of the clockwise route of Pen yr Ole Wen.

Before you go

Thank you for reading my guide on hiking Pen yr Ole Wen from Lake Ogwen. If guides, itineraries and travel content like this interest you, head over to my blog page to find out more.

If you are new to Matt’s Next Steps, check out the About Me page to find out a bit more about who I am, my travel adventures, and why I wanted to become a travel writer.

Please comment below and let me know your thoughts and experiences, or if there is anything else you want information on.

Happy hiking!

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Traveler, conservationist, photographer, blogger, and well-being enthusiast.

2 Comments

  • Ryan
    August 24, 2022 at 10:43 am

    Hello Matt

    Very interesting post. I was wondering what the grade of the scramble you ar e talking about is i.e. the one just after Ffynnon Lloer?

    Thanks

    Reply
    • Matt
      October 3, 2022 at 9:32 am

      Hi Ryan, I’d say the scramble is probably a grade 1 or 2. As the ascent gets a bit steeper you need to traverse some of the rocks. The majority is relatively easy, though there are a couple of sections where you may need to use your hands to help yourself up. There aren’t any crazy drops either which makes it feel a bit safer. Hope this helps.

      Reply

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