Hiking Pen yr Ole Wen from Lake Ogwen

Hiking Pen yr Ole Wen from Lake Ogwen

Pen yr Ole Wen, meaning ‘Head of the white slope’, is arguably one of the most underrated of all the mountains in Snowdonia National Park. It’s my favourite hike in the Carneddau Range because of its combination of incredible views, accessibility and a surprisingly quiet trail!

Standing at 978m tall, it’s the 7th highest peak in Snowdonia (and Wales). This makes it comparatively quiet compared with the likes of Mount Snowdon and Glyder Fach. Don’t let this take away from the feat of climbing it though, after all, Pen yr Ole Wen stands as tall as Scafell Pike in England, and the hike can be quite exhausting! 

This guide will cover everything you need to know about hiking Pen yr Ole Wen from Lake Ogwen. The route itself can be described as an extension of the Llyn Ogwen circular walk which starts from the south side of Lake Ogwen. The route is extremely adaptable with several other potential routes that also incorporate Pen yr Ole Wen. 

About Pen yr Ole Wen Hike

Walk type: Circular (out-and-back optional)
Distance: ~8km (depending on exact route)
Maximum Elevation: 978m (3209 feet)
Minimum Elevation: 310m
Walk time: 4-5 hours
Difficulty: Moderate
Highlights: Summit of Pen yr Ole Wen, lake views, scrambling
Permit Required: No
Entrance Fee: Non
Dogs Permitted: Yes

Hiking Pen yr Ole Wen Route

If you’re hiking Pen yr Ole Wen, you can follow the route on AllTrails below. It’s 2.9 km from the trailhead to the summit. Then from there back down to the lake, it’s around 2.5km. Then you can walk along the edge of the lake back to your starting point.

The route below offers an optional detour to Pen yr Ole Wen’s parent peak: Carnedd Dafydd.

Start of Pen Yr Ole Wen Hike

Park by Llyn Ogwen and make your way to the starting point of Tal y Llyn Ogwen farm on the east side of the lake. Tal y Llyn does not appear on several maps; instead look for Glan Dena, which is just beside the small farm. There is a paid car park by the hostel on the west side, however, free parking is available along the road (A5). Please be aware that there are ‘no parking’ signs in some sections. I don’t want you to be getting towed because that’s just not ideal. 

Walk along to the right of the farmhouse and across the cattle grid. Look out for some of the National Trust signposts – you will want to be following the red arrows for now. 

Ascending Pen yr Ole Wen

On the ascent, follow the stream (Afon Lloer) until just before you reach the beautiful lake of Ffynnon Lloer. This ascent is gentle and scenic with grassy hills and flowing water all around. The path frequently disappears, but as long as you follow the water source, you will be okay.

Once you veer off to the left, there is a short scramble up the slope to the first peak. This is the most challenging part of the whole ascent as it is quite steep.

From this peak, there is a short ascent to the summit of Pen yr Ole Wen. All this way you will have stunning views back down over the lake of Ffynnon Lloer.

Pen yr Ole Wen Summit

Once at the peak, you will have fantastic 360-degree views (weather dependent of course). You will be able to see the sea, the city of Bangor as well as Puffin Island just off the coastline. 

The route up Pen yr Ole Wen is often combined with a walk across some of the other peaks in the Carneddau range. For example, you can follow the ridge along to Pen yr Ole Wen’s parent peak, Carnydd Dafydd. 

The summit itself is open and spacious and is often quieter than other peaks, making it perfect for a sunny day. It can feel exposed when the wind blows which is perhaps one reason why some people don’t stop for long at the top of Pen yr Ole Wen.

From the top, you will also be able to look back down at Lake Ogwen as well as other lakes sitting further up the mountains such as Lake Idwal. Looking beyond Lake Ogwen you can see Glyder Fach and Devil’s Kitchen – two other famous hiking routes. 

Descending Pen yr Ole Wen

For the purpose of this post, I will continue describing this circular route coming back towards the hostel and Lake Ogwen rather than any walks further into the Carneddau range. 

As you begin to make your way back down, the path isn’t necessarily that obvious. You should continue to the other side of the peak that you arrived from. Then veer to the left. It is helpful to use Lake Ogwen as a reference.

The path down is quite steep and shingly, making it a scramble in places. The views are totally worth it! You might even be able to spot your car depending on where it’s parked (a little tip for those of you wanting to call shotgun)!

As you make your way down, the hostel should come into view. Continue heading down in that direction until you reach the bottom, remaining careful of any loose rocks.

Notes on Hiking Pen yr Ole Wen

Near the hostel on the west side of Lake Ogwen, there is a cafe. From here you can buy snacks and a refreshing drink. The staff are also very friendly and knowledgeable about the area should you have any questions! Toilet facilities and bins are also available.

The Red Arrows can frequently be seen in the valley practicing. Keep an eye (and an ear) out for them!

If you would prefer to avoid a precarious scramble down you can either go back the way you came or you can do the whole route in reverse (clockwise). This would start at the youth hostel on the west side of Lake Ogwen, then scrambling up Pen yr Ole Wen and a more relaxed route for the descent.

If you don’t have a map and compass to navigate. You can follow this route using my favourite backpacking app: maps.me or simply by taking screenshots of this post and following the steps. Similarly, a route can be downloaded in advance from apps like Komoot. 

Other hikes near Pen yr Ole Wen

While hiking Pen yr Ole Wen is an incredible challenge and a highlight of the Carneddau range, the Ogwen Valley and surrounding Snowdonia hills offer plenty of other superb walks if you have extra time or want a multi-day adventure. Here are my top picks:

• Cwm Idwal & Devil’s Kitchen Loop: A scenic but less demanding walk, the trail up to Cwm Idwal is a beautiful option. It takes you through dramatic landscapes with a stunning lake and steep cliffs — ideal if you want mountain scenery without the height of a summit.
• Llyn Ogwen Circular: For a relaxed lakeside wander, the Llyn Ogwen Circular path is a great choice. This moderate route takes you around the shores of Lake Ogwen, with views of Tryfan and the Carneddau peaks rising above.
• Foel-goch and the Glyderau: For variety, consider heading to the Glyderau range. Peaks like Tryfan and Foel-goch offer classic Snowdonia scrambling and characterful ridge lines. Routes here feel a touch wilder and are brilliant if you’re comfortable with steeper rock sections.
• Carnedd Dafydd & Llewelyn Ridge: As mentioned above… If you’ve still got energy after Pen yr Ole Wen, you can extend your hike along the Carneddau ridge. Routes that include Carnedd Dafydd (the fourth-highest peak in Wales) and Carnedd Llewelyn (second highest) offer dramatic ridge walking with panoramic views across Snowdonia. Many walkers combine these into a long day, looping back to Ogwen.

Where to stay near Lake Ogwen

Given that there are so many good hikes to explore in this area, you might consider staying near Llyn Ogwen. There are several cottages, Airbnbs, and other rentals to choose from, so here are a few options for your accommodation:

• YHA Idwal Cottage: One of the most popular bases for hikers, YHA Cottage sits right in the Ogwen Valley. It’s an eco-friendly hostel with both private and shared rooms, great communal spaces, and easy access to walks up into Cwm Idwal, along Llyn Ogwen, or up into the Carneddau and Glyderau peaks
• Snowdonia Mountain Lodge: This simple lodge with mountain scenery offers family rooms and kitchen facilities is one of the best rated on Booking. Located near Bethesda, it’s another great option for hiking Pen yr Ole Wen and others in the area.
• Ceunant Bach: This comfy little cottage with a garden and mountain views is a cosy place to rest up after a few tough hikes!

Before you go

Thank you for reading my guide on hiking Pen yr Ole Wen from Lake Ogwen. If guides, itineraries and travel content like this interest you, head over to my Homepage to find out more.

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Happy hiking!