Hiking Pen yr Ole Wen from Lake Ogwen
Pen yr Ole Wen is arguably one of the most underrated of all the mountains in Snowdonia National Park. Standing at 978m tall, it is the 7th highest peak in Snowdonia (and Wales). This makes it comparatively quiet compared with the likes of Mount Snowdon and Glyder Fach. Don’t let this take away from the feat of climbing it though, after all, Pen yr Ole Wen stands as tall as Scafell Pike in England, and the hike can be quite exhausting!
This guide will cover everything you need to know about hiking Pen yr Ole Wen from Lake Ogwen. The route itself can be described as an extension of the Llyn Ogwen circular walk which starts from the south side of Lake Ogwen. The route is extremely adaptable with several other potential routes that also incorporate Pen yr Ole Wen.
About Pen yr Ole Wen
Height in Metres: 978m
Height in Feet: 3209 feet
Prominence: 45m
Prominence in Feet: 148 feet
Range: Carneddau (of which Pen yr Ole Wen is the southernmost peak)
Parent Peak: Carnydd Dafydd (3rd highest peak)
Translates to: Head of the white slope
Hiking Pen yr Ole Wen Route
Start of Pen Yr Ole Wen Hike
Park by Llyn Ogwen and make your way to the starting point of Tal y Llyn Ogwen farm on the east side of the lake. Tal y Llyn does not appear on several maps; instead look for Glan Dena, which is just beside the small farm. There is a paid car park by the hostel on the west side, however, free parking is available along the road (A5). Please be aware that there are ‘no parking’ signs in some sections. I don’t want you to be getting towed because that’s just not ideal.
Walk along to the right of the farmhouse and across the cattle grid. Look out for some of the National Trust signposts – you will want to be following the red arrows for now.
Ascending Pen yr Ole Wen
On the ascent, follow the stream (Afon Lloer) until just before you reach the beautiful lake of Ffynnon Lloer. This ascent is gentle and scenic with grassy hills and flowing water all around. The path frequently disappears, but as long as you follow the water source, you will be okay.
Once you veer off to the left, there is a short scramble up the slope to the first peak. This is the most challenging part of the whole ascent as it is quite steep.
From this peak, there is a short ascent to the summit of Pen yr Ole Wen. All this way you will have stunning views back down over the lake of Ffynnon Lloer.
Pen yr Ole Wen Summit
Once at the peak, you will have fantastic 360-degree views (weather dependent of course). You will be able to see the sea, the city of Bangor as well as Puffin Island just off the coastline.
The route up Pen yr Ole Wen is often combined with a walk across some of the other peaks in the Carneddau range. For example, you can follow the ridge along to Pen yr Ole Wen’s parent peak, Carnydd Dafydd (see above).
The summit itself is open and spacious and is often quieter than other peaks, making it perfect for a sunny day. It can feel exposed when the wind blows which is perhaps one reason why some people don’t stop for long at the top of Pen yr Ole Wen.
From the top, you will also be able to look back down at Lake Ogwen as well as other lakes sitting further up the mountains such as Lake Idwal. Looking beyond Lake Ogwen you can see Glyder Fach and Devil’s Kitchen – two other famous hiking routes.
Descending Pen yr Ole Wen
For the purpose of this post, I will continue describing this circular route coming back towards the hostel and Lake Ogwen rather than any walks further into the Carneddau range.
As you begin to make your way back down, the path isn’t necessarily that obvious. You should continue to the other side of the peak that you arrived from. Then veer to the left. It is helpful to use Lake Ogwen as a reference.
The path down can be quite steep and a bit of a scramble, but the views are worth it! You might even be able to spot your car depending on where it’s parked (a little tip for those of you wanting to call shotgun)!
As you make your way down, the hostel should come into view. Continue heading down in that direction until you reach the bottom, remaining careful of any loose rocks.
Notes on Hiking Pen yr Ole Wen
Near the hostel on the west side of Lake Ogwen, there is a cafe. From here you can buy snacks and a refreshing drink. The staff are also very friendly and knowledgeable about the area should you have any questions! Toilet facilities and bins are also available.
The Red Arrows can frequently be seen in the valley practicing. Keep an eye (and an ear) out for them!
If you would prefer to avoid a precarious scramble down you can either go back the way you came or you can do the whole route in reverse (clockwise). This would start at the youth hostel on the west side of Lake Ogwen, then scrambling up Pen yr Ole Wen and a more relaxed route for the descent.
If you don’t have a map and compass to navigate. You can follow this route using my favourite backpacking app: maps.me or simply by taking screenshots of this post and following the steps. Similarly, a route can be downloaded in advance from apps like Komoot.
Before you go
Thank you for reading my guide on hiking Pen yr Ole Wen from Lake Ogwen. If guides, itineraries and travel content like this interest you, head over to my blog page to find out more.
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Please comment below and let me know your thoughts and experiences, or if there is anything else you want information on.
Happy hiking!
2 Comments
Ryan
August 24, 2022 at 10:43 amHello Matt
Very interesting post. I was wondering what the grade of the scramble you ar e talking about is i.e. the one just after Ffynnon Lloer?
Thanks
Matt
October 3, 2022 at 9:32 amHi Ryan, I’d say the scramble is probably a grade 1 or 2. As the ascent gets a bit steeper you need to traverse some of the rocks. The majority is relatively easy, though there are a couple of sections where you may need to use your hands to help yourself up. There aren’t any crazy drops either which makes it feel a bit safer. Hope this helps.