How to hike Traveller’s Pass Kyrgyzstan (near Sary Mogul)
Traveller’s Pass (often referred to as Traveller’s Peak and less commonly Puteshestvennikov Pass) is one of the most rewarding high-altitude day hikes in southern Kyrgyzstan. Located above Tulpar Lake in the Alay Mountain Range, this hike offers altitude, huge mountain scenery, quiet trails, and a real sense of remoteness. All of this without requiring technical climbing skills!
It’s a challenging but achievable hike for trekkers who want to experience Kyrgyzstan’s wild southern landscapes beyond the usual tourist routes. The area is also known as a gateway to Peak Lenin (7134m), but this hike stands firmly on its own as a spectacular mountain objective. Because of this, Traveller’s Pass is my go-to recommendation for day hikes near Sary Mogul!
About Traveller’s Pass
Traveller’s Pass isn’t named for/after any historical figure; it’s simply a mountain hiked by travellers passing through the region. Many of these hikers stay at Tulpar Lake camp or are moving between camps on the Peak Lenin approach, which is the main reason this region is famous.
The pass itself rises to around 4,150 metres, making it a high-altitude hike, not to be taken lightly. And on a clear day, the scale of the landscape is genuinely humbling. From the high-point of this hike, you get sweeping views the Alay Valley stretching toward Tajikistan, snowy ridgelines around Peak Lenin, glacial valleys and colourful scree slopes formed from minerals.
Peak Lenin on the other hand is a mountain standing at 7134m belonging to the Pamir Range on the Kyrgyzstan-Tajikistan border. It’s known as one of the ‘easiest’ 7000m peaks to climb in the world. So whilst some serious trekkers tackle this mountain each summer, Traveller’s Pass is the best way to experience this epic mountain without venturing too deep into more technical mountaineering.
About Traveller’s Pass Hike
Walk type: Out-and-back
Distance: ~18km (depending on exact start location)
Maximum Elevation: 4200m
Minimum Elevation: 3500m
Walk time: 5-7 Hours
Difficulty: Moderate
Highlights: Glacier views, red rocks, marmots
Permit Required: No
Entrance Fee: No
Traveller’s Pass Hike Route
*Custom AllTrails pending*
How to get to the Traveller’s Pass Trailhead
Traveller’s Peak is accessed from Tulpar Lake, which itself is reached via the Peak Lenin region in southern Kyrgyzstan.
For most, this means stopping off in the village of Sary Mogul. This remote region of Kyrgyzstan can be a slog to get to, but the incredible views make it completely worth it!
To get there:
- Travel to Osh (10-14 hours i.e. full travel day)
- From Bishkek: If you’re coming from Bishkek (most popular option), the journey is around 12 hours (give or take a few hours). The quickest and most-comfortable option is to get a shared taxi with other travellers, however this can be more expensive. Ask your accommodation how to organise this, as they should have a number. Otherwise, marshrutkas are the next best (and most economical) option. They leave the Western Bus Station in Bishkek when they are full, and cost around 1000 Kyrgyz Som (approx 10 USD).
- From elsewhere: If you’re coming from elsewhere (e.g. Kochkor or the Tajik border), it could be more complicated as public transport is limited. Hitchhiking or renting a car is always an option. Sadly Yandex isn’t really an option in more remote regions or for long-distance drives.
- Osh to Sary Mogul (5–6 hours)
- There is at least one marshrutka that leaves Osh every day to Daroot Kargon near the Kyrgyz-Tajik border. This goes via Sary Tash and Sary Mogul and is best for exploring this region. Schedules can vary, so speak to your accommodation about this. If not, take a shared taxi or arrange transport from Osh to Sary Mogul.
- Sary Mogul to Tulpar Lake (1–2 hours, road condition dependent)
- From Sary Mogol, continue by 4WD to Tulpar Lake. There’s not much of a road, our 4×4 seemed to just cruise over the land for several miles. Eventually we rejoined some sort of track and arrived in the fairytale-land that is Tulpar Lake
Most people hike Traveller’s Peak directly from their yurt camp near Tulpar Lake, making it an easy add-on without moving accommodation.
Hiking Traveller’s Pass: What to expect
Setting off from our yurt camp (see below), we immediately went down into the river valley to cross the bridge. Even if you’re staying at a different yurt camp and join the trail elsewhere, but you’ll likely still cross this bridge (it’s marked on maps.me). From there, we followed a small stream across lush, green grasslands in the direction of Traveller’s Pass.
Whilst the trail isn’t always super-obvious, it’s easy to navigate as you walk in the direction of the big snowy peaks in the distance! Plus, there are a couple of different trails that intertwine which both go in this direction. .
There’s a fair distance of ‘flat’ before the final ascent to the pass. However, the ground undulates a lot, so the path weaves between hills, there are a couple of smaller river crossings.
En route you’ll find a flat section with a few more buildings. There is a bit more activity up here with some yurt camps, and some camps being built too.
Also look out for a few more horses around here! We saw some wild ones, as well as several being used to transport construction materials.
Continue along this path and eventually the path will curve to the right. If you go to the edge (but not too close) you can see the river below. Follow the path to the right and you will come across the first signpost.
Follow the signpost directions and shortly after, you will come to a waterfall. You can wander slightly off of the trail to get a little closer, but be careful as there’s a couple of big drops down.
Shortly after the waterfall, there’s a steeper section which takes a bit more care. And around here, you also have a memorial for all of those who have passed away on the mountain in this area taking on Peak Lenin. The memorials en-route are a stark reminder of the power of this mountainous region!
The path then transitions from grasslands more towards rocks as you gain elevation.
Follow the path as it winds gradually upwards along the mountain. The path is relatively thin here so be careful of your footing, and depending on when you are hiking there could be a couple of snowy sections!
You will eventually reach the red rock where the switchbacks begin. The path isn’t as obvious here, but you will see various options as you tackle the steepest and toughest section of this hike.
At the top of the switchbacks, you will be rewarded with some incredible views at Traveller’s Pass! Maybe take a moment here to catch your breathe as the steep section before takes it out of you.
Traveller’s Pass sits at around 4150m, but there is an extra (optional) hike uphill to get to the peak which is just over 4200m. It’s a little bit sketchy with skree and drops on either side, but the view is worth it in my opinion as you get full 360-degree views.
In one direction you can look at the ridgeline (which I wouldn’t recommend walking further along). You can also see the whole distance you’ve walked from Tulpar Lake!
Meanwhile, on the other side you can see an unobstructed view of the glacier right alongside the red rock mountain you’ve just climbed!
Beyond Traveller’s Pass, it’s still another 4 hours of hard trekking until reaching Lenin Peak Base Camp. Therefore, for the day hike you will turn back.
Take in the last views of everything that Traveller’s Pass has to offer, and then make your way down again via the same route. As you retrace your steps, be careful as the rocks underfoot (especially on tired legs and with less-oxygenated air) can be slippery.
Honest Review
When I set off on the Traveller’s Pass hike, I didn’t really know what to expect. I’d explored Tulpar lakes so I guess I was expecting more of that! I really didn’t expect to witness such incredible, exposed views of the mountain. Nor did I realise that I would be able to see such a beautiful glacier!
But perhaps that’s poor research on my part…
Because of this, I didn’t have any expectations of what the hike would be like. The first part of the hike was pretty steady and flat. We weaved between the undulations of the land, spotting a few horses and passing other yurt camps! My yurt camp felt so isolated, it was interesting to see others in use and even more being built!
Once we got past ‘civilisation’ and onto the smaller trails, it was so beautiful – the perfect introduction to Kyrgyzstan (and a hard act to follow). From greenery, to wild flowers, to red rock and then snow and ice, it felt like one of the most colourful hikes I’ve been on!
Because of this, I lost track of how far I’d walked! It wasn’t until I returned to camp and seen I’d walked 17km that I realised how long it was! The steep switchbacks I can’t deny were tough at that altitude and the final uphill back to our yurt camp was also tough but the payoff was huge!
I’m glad I was fit as there were definitely other hikers struggling and some that stopped at the pass without going up to the peak. Which in my opinion is definitely worth it!
The views are expansive, the atmosphere feels raw and untouched, and there’s a real satisfaction in reaching such a high point under your own steam. It’s one of those hikes where the journey matters just as much as the destination.
Where to stay at Tulpar Lake?
Given the distance of Osh from Traveller’s Peak, you will need to spend at least one night at Tulpar Lake (ideally two).
You therefore have two options: wild camping or yurt camps.
- Yurt Camps (my recommended choice):
- Options: There are several yurt camps in the region, I stayed in Buaisha Yurt Camp which is one of the furthest from Tulpar Lake, and one of the best for the hike. It’s simpler than other camps, but had everything I needed personally. Other options include CBT Yurt Camp which is more expensive and more ‘luxurious’, as well ask Tilek Yurt Camp and Sunrise Yurt Camp.
- Prices: Cost for yurt camps at Tulpar Lake ranges from 2000-4500 Kyrgyz Som .
- Facilities: Aside from your bed for the night and basic washroom facilities, most yurt camps will include a heater, and at least one meal (others are usually paid extra). I opted for all three meals to avoid carrying my food, and to maximise my energy for the hike!
- Wild Camping: If you have your own camping gear, you can camp almost anywhere in this region. If you decide to camp yourself, you can still purchase meals from the yurt camps.
Tips for hiking Traveller’s Pass
Here are my top tips for hiking Traveller’s Pass:
- Start early: This helps avoid any strong afternoon winds or potential weather changes. It also gives you more time to hike.
- Move slowly and steadily: It’s not a race. Take regular short breaks rather than long stops. It helps with altitude and keeps your body warm in windy conditions
- Bring more water than you think you’ll need: the dry air and altitude are dehydrating. 2-3 litres should be ideal and a re-hydration sachet or isotonic drink is also helpful.
- Wear layers: Even on sunny days, as temperatures can drop quickly near the top. Plus, in the mountains you never know what the weather will bring.
- Bring sun protection: At this altitude, with all the snow reflecting you need to avoid getting burnt. Wear sunglasses, hats and sun cream.
- Trekking poles: Use them if you have them! They help massively on the descent, so I was jealous of those who’d carried them.
- Download a map: There is no/limited signal on the hike, make sure you have a way to figure out where you are. Personally, maps.me was pretty helpful. That being said, our yurt camp had signal, so you should be able to download it there (but don’t rely on it).
FAQs
Can you hike Traveller’s Pass solo?
Yes, many people do. Especially those already trekking independently in southern Kyrgyzstan.
That said, you should be comfortable hiking above 3,500m and comfortable navigating.
If conditions look unstable or you’re unsure about your altitude tolerance, joining other hikers from your camp or hiring a local guide is a sensible option.
I went in July and there were several other hikers on the trail, but you shouldn’t rely on that. Especially as the hiking route near Tulpar lake is vast and easy to get lost.
Best time to hike Traveller’s Pass?
The hiking season in this region is short. The best time to hike Traveller’s Pass is July to early September, when the snow has mostly melted and yurt camps around Tulpar Lake are operating.
Much earlier than July and snow can block parts of the route. By late September, cold temperatures and early snowfall make hiking more difficult and uncomfortable.
Yurt camps are staying open later as more tourism increases, but early October is usually around when they shut for the season.
Is Traveller’s Pass difficult?
Technically, the hike is moderate. There’s no climbing or exposed scrambling.
Physically, it’s challenging due to the altitude. Even strong hikers will feel the effects above 3,500 metres, especially if they ascend too quickly. Therefore, take a slow and steady approach – it’s not a long-distance hike so you should have plenty of time.
The trail itself isn’t technical, but the elevation makes this hike far more demanding than it appears. Anyone not acclimatised will feel it.
If you’ve already spent a night or two at Tulpar Lake, it becomes much more manageable. I came in after completing the Pamir Highway through Tajikistan so was fully acclimatised.
What to pack
I’m hoping that given you’re in southern Kyrgyzstan, you know what you’re in for already. But here’s a quick checklist for what to pack for your hike to Traveller’s Pass.
- Hiking shoes: Good grip is essential for the scree sections of the hike. Pair these with some good hiking socks so your feet are warm and don’t get blisters.
- Water: 2-3 litres.
- Snacks: Keeping your energy levels up is important, especially with the distance covered reaching Traveller’s Peak.
- Camera: the scenery throughout the walk is varied and extremely beautiful!
- Battery pack: Just to make sure your phone is always topped up for directions and photos.
- Sunglasses & Sun cream: Once the sun comes up, especially with the altitude and reflecting snow it can be very strong.
- Warm Clothes: If not for the hike, you’ll definitely need warm clothing for the night time. My had, scarf and gloves came in clutch, and I also wore my joggers to bed! That being said, some of the yurt camps do have heaters inside (though that’s not a reason to not pack warm clothes).
- Waterproofs: the weather can change at any time so a jacket, trousers and something for your backpack is essential. Or a solid poncho that covers everything also works.
- Camping equipment (optional): Only if you wish to pitch a tent and sleep up there. There are several places to wild-camp in the Tulpar Lake vicinity.
- Cash (Kyrgyz Som): The yurt camps and their meals cost money, and they don’t accept card.
Given that you’ll be staying at Tulpar Lake, you can take a day bag with the essentials for hiking Traveller’s Pass. Obviously there’s no need for you to carry your big bag with all your spare clothes!
Other hikes nearby
If you’re spending time around Tulpar Lake or heading toward Peak Lenin, these are also worth considering:
- Tulpar Lake shoreline walks – gentle acclimatisation with scenic views.
- Peak Lenin Base Camp hike – classic route but multiple days needed.
- Lenin Peak Advanced Base Camp – for experienced trekkers.
Elsewhere in Kyrgyzstan, my absolute must-dos are Uchitel Peak and Adygene Lake in Ala Archa National Park, as well as Ala-Kul near Karakol.
Before you go
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Happy hiking!