How and where to see Kok Boru in Central Asia?
Seeing kok boru (buzkashi) and other nomadic games was one of the main reasons for my trip to Central Asia! It’s so specific and niche to this part of the world that I couldn’t leave without witnessing it.
Kok boru, or dead goat polo, is one of the most unforgettable cultural experiences you can have here, but it’s also one of the hardest to plan! Unlike festivals with fixed dates or attractions with opening hours, kok boru is deeply local, seasonal, and often organised informally. You won’t find a neat event calendar online, and many games only become known a few days (or hours) in advance.
After spending more than two months travelling through Central Asia, I was lucky enough to see two kok boru matches. Along the way, I learned exactly how travellers can find games and where to see kok boru in Central Asia. This guide brings all of that together, so you don’t have to rely on pure luck.
What is Kok Boru
Kok boru is a traditional Central Asian horseback game in which teams of riders compete to carry a goat carcass into a goal – crazy right! Depending on the country, it’s also known as buzkashi, ulak tartysh, kupkari, or similar regional names.
The name often translates loosely as “dragging the goat,” which gives a fairly accurate sense of what’s happening!
Rather than a finesse sport, kok boru about strength, horsemanship and teamwork – and it’s utterly bonkers! Riders gallop across open fields, wrestle for control of the carcass, fight for position, and block opponents with their horses, all vying to deliver the carcass into their team’s scoring zone!
Historically, kok boru wasn’t just entertainment – it was a test of man and horse, designed to celebrate strength, unity, and courage among nomadic warriors. Today it’s a cultural spectacle as well as a serious sport for many riders across Central Asia.
History of Kok Boru
Kok boru originated among nomadic Turkic and Persian peoples who relied on horses for warfare, herding and survival. The game evolved as a practical training ritual for horsemen and a way to channel competitive spirit during festivals.
Over centuries, it spread throughout Central Asia, developing local variations in Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan, Tajikistan, Uzbekistan, and Afghanistan.
In modern times, kok boru is both folk tradition and competitive sport – played at large national festivals, regional competitions, and even as an organised circuit with trophies and local recognition. But we’ll move onto exactly where to see kok boru further below.
When to see Kok Boru
Generally speaking, kok boru is a cold-weather sport, so the best time of year to see it is during the winter months when horses don’t overheat and villagers have more time (whilst still avoiding the snow). That being said, you can find games throughout the year – even in the summer months when most travellers (like me) visit. Particularly in Kyrgyzstan, the summer brings greener pastures and more readily-trained horses.
Unlike scheduled league sports, kok boru isn’t played year-round at fixed venues.
Instead, local games take place in remote regions and larger games take place in hippodromes or larger stadiums in accordance with national holidays.
Some key times to look out for are:
- Spring to early autumn (May–September): Peak local festival season
- Weekend tournaments in rural districts
- Public holidays & national celebrations
- Nauruz/Norooz/Navruz – usually around 21 March
- Salburun festivals (Kyrgyzstan) – usually in early August
- Independence Days (noted below)
Unfortunately, there’s no central international schedule, so dates vary by region and community. This means you just have to stay in the know via various sources (see below) and remain flexible as you might find out events last-minute!
How to see Kok Boru in Central Asia
Firstly, here are the best ways to see Kok Boro in Central Asia. I will break down how to see kok boru by country further below.
- Nomadic Games Festival: Large festivals (like the World Nomad Games or Salburun) almost always include kok boru. These are the easiest option if your timing aligns, but they aren’t very frequent. For example, the World Nomad Games takes place every two years (the next one is in Kyrgyzstan in 2026).
- Organised Regional Matches: Some regions host semi-organised weekend matches between local teams. These are harder to find online but common in rural areas during summer.
- Paid Cultural Events: Occasionally, kok boru is included in tourist-focused festivals or cultural showcases. These are less raw but easier to plan. This is how I saw kok boru in Kyzyl-Oi.
- Pure Luck: Many travellers see kok boru simply because they asked locals at the right time and place. I actually happened across a game in the middle of nowhere whilst on a 3-day horse trek! Sadly you can’t rely on this…
- Buy a goat: I’m still not sure if this is a joke, but my guide said it very seriously… If we all pitched in to buy the goat and found a couple of riders ourselves – they could put the word out to get a spontaneous match going!
Where to see Kok Boru in Kyrgyzstan
Kyrgyzstan is arguably the easiest and most reliable country to see kok boru.
Your best chances are in:
- Bishkek & Chui Region: Village fields around Bishkek frequently host matches, especially on weekends in summer. Teams often come from districts like Sokuluk, Alamudun, and Jayyl, making this one of the most accessible regions for travellers.
- Osh & Southern Kyrgyzstan: Kok boru is deeply rooted in the south of the country. Matches are often tied to national holidays, weddings, and local celebrations, and the sport is taken very seriously here.
- Festivals and national holidays
- Salburun Festivals: Salburun is a traditional Kyrgyz sports festival featuring eagle hunting, archery, horse racing – and (most-importantly) kok boru. These festivals are often held near Bokonbaevo or elsewhere around Issyk-Kul. One of the matches I saw was in Kyzyl-Oi on the south of Issyk-Kul.
- Nauryz in late March or Independence Day on 31 August
NOTE: Community-Based Tourism (CBT) offices in Bishkek, Karakol, and Osh are excellent resources for finding upcoming games. Lean on them as much as possible. Otherwise, ask guesthouses for the weekend kok boru schedules since locals often know the fields and times.
Where to see Kok Boru in Kazakhstan
Kok boru is played across Kazakhstan, though less visible to travellers. That being said, I actually remember seeing it on Race Across the World (English TV show).
Your best chances are in:
- Southern regions: Shymkent, Turkestan and Taraz
- Northern regions: Aktobe and Astana
- Festivals and national holidays: Nauryz in late March or Independence Day on 16 December
Events are rarely advertised, so having local contacts or a driver helps significantly.
Where to see Kok Boru in Tajikistan
Also known locally as kupkari, kok boru does exist in Tajikistan, but it’s not common. I’d honestly suggest crossing into southern Kyrgyzstan to find a game there instead.
If you do decide to stay, your best chances are in:
- Outside of Dushanbe: Near Hisor and Khatlon (Independence Day often has a game at Hisor Fortress)
- Rural jamoats during holiday weekends
- Regions near the Fann Mountains
- Festivals and national holidays: Nauryz in late March or Independence Day on 9 September
Local guidance is strongly recommended as events are almost never advertised online.
I spent over two weeks in Tajikistan exploring the Pamir Highway as well as the western regions and couldn’t find any sign of kok boru. Though I heard that it can sometimes take place in Murghab (one of the larger towns on the route).
Where to See Kok Boru in Uzbekistan
Kok boru exists in Uzbekistan but is less prominent and harder to find. When it does occur, it’s usually part of rural celebrations or regional festivals rather than public sporting events.
Look out for festivals: Independence Day (1 September), Flag Day (8 November), Constitution Day (8 December), which might yield opportunities.
If you are searching for kok boru in Central Asia, you might consider skipping Uzbekistan. If you’re looking for temples and architecture though, Uzbek has you covered!
Where to See Kok Boru in Afghanistan
Kok boru is pretty big in Afghanistan. So much so that it’s the national sport!
Given the current security situation there, I don’t recommend looking for a game right now.
How to Find Kok Boru Matches
From my experience, it’s relatively tricky to find kok boru games (unless you’re going to the World Nomad Games).
But just because they’re so elusive, doesn’t mean they don’t happen – you just have to cover all the avenues below:
1. Ask Locals
This is the most reliable way as they’ll be aware of schedules. You can ask:
- Guesthouse (and hostel) owners
- CBT tourism offices
- Taxi drivers
- Riders in rural markets
These people usually know where matches are happening that weekend.
Remember, a few local phrases, in Russian/Kyrgyz, go a long way!
2. Look for Community Events
As mentioned, many kok boru matches coincide with:
- Weddings or local festivals
- National holidays
- Horse racing or traditional sports events
Even if you only see horse racing advertised, kitchens or local cafes nearby usually know if a kok boru game is happening afterwards. It’s 100% worth following up on anything like this.
3. Follow Social Accounts
Some larger events are posted on:
- Community tourism Facebook groups
- Local travel Instagram accounts
- Regional festival pages
- Kyrgyzstan CBT: Check out their events pages for any organised ones. Anything that mentions horse games is generally a good bet. I found one in Kyzyl-Oi.
Search in Russian/Kyrgyz for any of these terms in across all platforms: Кок бору расписание, жылкы оюну, kok boru festival Kyrgyzstan
What to expect at Kok Boru
Atmosphere
The atmosphere at a Kok Boru game is personally what makes the whole expereince so fascinating! Firstly, you should expect extremely loud cheering from the crowd as they stand or sit around the field. On the pitch, there’s a lot of intense action! There’s a lot of mud or dust (depending on the weather) as players and their horses come together going for the carcass!
It’s not a stadium sport – it’s raw, earthy, and intensely local.
Carcass
The carcass used to play with is usually a goat, but sometimes a sheep. Skilled riders grip it by the handle loops sewn into it. As they ride, they often hook the carcass underneath their legs to keep a grip. It can be as heavy as 30kg, so riders have to be insanely strong!
Yes, this can be confronting for some travellers. If you’re uncomfortable with this aspect, kok boru may still be worth attending for cultural immersion, but keep in mind that the sport is visceral and traditional.
Ticketing and Costs
Most local games are free (or very cheap). The only cost will be transport and accommodation as well as any snacks/drinks bought from local vendors.
- Larger festival events have small entrance fees. My horse games event which included kok boru cost a few hundred som and was totally worth it.
- Major festivals can charge a few hundred soms, but nothing close to mainstream professional sport.
Dress, Respect & Photography Tips
- Dress modestly if attending rural matches. And have hiking shoes if the weather has been bad (fields can be muddy)
- Respect local customs and participants. Avoid cheering against players (locals are very competitive)
- Ask before photographing riders or ceremonies. A telephoto lens is really helpful to capture the action!
My experience at Kok Boru
Having seen kok boru in Kyrgyzstan on two occasions, I will cover both of my experiences.
The first was a brief glance whilst on a 3-day horse trek. As we passed through remote fields, we saw players mid-game with very few spectators. I’m not sure why it was being played, but it got me very excited to see a full match! My takeaway from this is that games are being played across the country, even if you don’t know about it!
The second occasion was at a National Horse Games event in Kyzyl-Oi. There were a series of other activities and spectacles on that day, but kok boru was billed as the main event.
It was an exciting, dusty and eye-opening spectacle. I found it very impressive how much control the riders had over the horses, how strong they were and how fast it’s played. Despite the speed of the game, I realised that games can last for a very long time, as it’s extremely tough to score if it’s evenly matched!
FAQs
Do I need a guide to see kok boru?
No, but local help makes it much easier – especially in rural areas.
Is kok boru safe to watch?
Yes – it’s as safe as any sport-spectator situation. Just stay off the actual field and respect riders’ space. Sometimes the riders will need some space beyond the pitch so if you see a large group heading in your direction, be prepared to step back and get out of the way.
Can I see kok boru in winter only?
No, whilst Kok boru is largely a winter sport, sometimes it can be too cold or snowy in mountain regions. Instead the summer offers green pastures, even if it is a bit hotter. Many events still run in the summer time.
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