Xela to Lake Atitlan 3-Day Hike: The Ultimate Guide

Xela to Lake Atitlan 3-Day Hike: The Ultimate Guide

The Xela to Lake Atitlan hike is a magnificent multi-day trek through the mountainous region of southwestern Guatemala. You may have heard of the Quetzaltenango to Lake Atitlan trek which is exactly the same hike (Xela and Quetzaltenango are actually the same place). Across three spectacular days, you will get a taste of rural Guatemala and its culture as you explore remote villages – seeing a side of the country that many travellers do not. You will enjoy breathtaking views of the surrounding landscapes, including an epic sunrise over Lake Atitlan during the Indian Nose hike. And to top it off, you will get a proper leg-burner of a workout!

This guide will cover a detailed breakdown of each of the three days of the hike, including the Indian Nose hike on the last day. Plus every single tip and piece of advice I could possibly think of to help you prepare for these three days!

About the Xela to Lake Atitlan Hike

Walk type: Multi-day trek
Total Distance: 42km
Maximum Elevation: 3050m
Minimum Elevation: 1500m
Walk time: Day 1 (9 hours), Day 2 (5 hours), Day 3 (5 hours)
Difficulty: Hard
Highlights: Indian Nose sunrise, traditional Temescal

The Xela to Lake Atitlan hike is definitely one of the lesser-known hikes in Guatemala. It’s almost exclusively completed by tourists since most local people wouldn’t bother. With this lack of footfall and remoteness, some of the jungle pathways are not well-maintained.

The majority of the hike takes place on dirt trails, meandering through the jungle and up and over mountains, making the elevation change quite significant. There is a small amount of hiking on the roadside.

Unlike other hikes, there is not one specific trail to follow from Xela to Lake Atitlan. Different tour companies take slightly different routes. These all cover approximately the same distance and across similar terrain.

About Xela

Before we go any further, it’s important to understand that Xela (pronounced ‘Shay-la) has two names that can be used interchangeably. Quetzaltenango is the official name of the city and is what you will see on maps or signs around Guatemala. It loosely translates to “place of the quetzal birds”. Xela is the city’s Mayan name meaning “under ten mountains.” Thankfully Xela is the one more commonly used by locals since it’s much easier to say!

Xela is the second-largest city in Guatemala and is located around 4 hours west of the capital, Guatemala City. It’s made up of a colonial-style center expanding into a far-spanning urban sprawl, all amidst a series of stunning mountains and volcanoes. Standing at 2300m (7546ft) above sea level, Xela is also Guatemala’s highest-altitude city, making it noticeably cooler than the rest of the country.

Despite its proximity to Guatemala’s most popular destinations (Lake Atitlan or Antigua), Xela still remains somewhat off the beaten track. Perhaps it lacks some of Antigua’s charm or Lake Atitlan’s beauty. But what it may lack in those aspects, Xela makes up for with an abundance of character and authenticity. When wandering the streets, you won’t really see other travellers or backpackers. The population is predominantly indigenous Maya or mixed-race people, meaning that traditional Guatemalan life comes to the fore. This means vibrant dress, friendly people, and a close link to its historic past.

About Lake Atitlan

Lake Atitlan, also known as Lago de Atitlan, is located in the south of Guatemala around 40 kilometers east of Xela. This crater lake, formed approximately 85,000 years ago by a volcanic eruption, has an area of 130 kilometers squared and is the deepest lake in Central America.

This enormous, blue lake surrounded by volcanoes and mountains, is home to a number of towns and villages, secluded in the foothills. Each has its own unique character and individuality, from the laid-back hippie vibes of San Marcos to the backpacker scene in San Pedro (where the hike ends). They are all closely connected by a network of boats.

Unlike Xela, Lake Atitlan is one of Guatemala’s most popular tourist destinations, with plenty to keep you busy. The area boasts an array of hiking, good food, and yoga retreats, as well as postcard-worthy views! Because of this, Lake Atitlan is a place where many travellers decide to settle for a longer period of time, whether to learn Spanish; work as a digital nomad, or delve deeper into its towns.

FAQs

How long does it take to hike from Xela to Lake Atitlan?

It takes 3 days to hike from Xela to Lake Atitlan. The total time spent actually walking over these three days is approximately 19 hours.

Is the hike safe?

The multi-day trek to Lake Atitlan is relatively safe, particularly with a guide with local knowledge. Robberies have been known to occur on hiking trails in Guatemala, particularly on the Indian Nose hike. That being said, there wasn’t a moment of the 3-day hike that I felt unsafe. Nor had my guide ever experienced any trouble in all his time as a guide on this route.

How much does it cost to do the Xela to Lake Atitlan hike?

Prices for the hike range from 750Q to 1000Q, depending on the company that you book with. The most popular companies, Quetzaltrekkers and Monte Verde, charge 950Q and 750Q respectively. This includes meals, accommodation, equipment, park entrance fees, and a guide.

Do you need hiking boots?

Ideally yes, you should wear hiking boots for the Xela to Lake Atitlan hike. However, if you don’t have any it is not the end of the world. Trainers or walking shoes with decent grip are sufficient for this hike. The most important thing is that they are comfortable as you will be walking in them for the next three days.

Can you hike the route in reverse, from Lake Atitlan to Xela?

Objectively, it is possible to hike from Lake Atitlan to Xela via the same route used for the normal hike. However, the main tour companies do not offer this route. Also hiking eastwards from Xela to Lake Atitlan has better views as you face the volcanoes in the east the whole time.

If you do want to finish in Xela, some tour companies offer return transport from Lake Atitlan to Xela.

How to get to Xela

Getting to Xela From Lake Atitlan

You have three options to get from Lake Atitlan to Xela; a direct bus, a public ‘chicken’ bus, or a private shuttle.

Direct buses run from Panajachel (Lake Atitlan) and head straight to the main bus terminal in Xela (Minerva). The service costs 30Q, though you may be asked for more (“Gringo tax”). There is also a direct bus that runs from San Pedro to Xela which costs approximately 35Q.

The cheapest way to get to Xela from Lake Atitlan is by chicken bus. The route requires two changes; first in Solola, and then in Los Encuentros. Take the bus from Panajachel to Solola, which should take around 20 minutes and cost 3Q. Then take the bus from Solola to Los Encuentros, which should take another 20 minutes and cost 2.5Q. From Los Encuentros, take a bus to Xela, which takes around 2 hours and costs 20Q.

The quickest and simplest (and most expensive) way to get to Xela is by booking a private shuttle. The journey should take around 2 hours in total. You can book shuttles through hostels, agencies, or online. You should expect to pay approximately 150Q.

Getting to Xela From Antigua

Once again, there are multiple options to get from Antigua to Xela.

The cheapest option is by chicken bus. Get on the bus at the main bus terminal on the west side of Antigua. You will need to change at either Chimaltenango or Los Encuentros. The bus will drop you at the main bus terminal in Xela (Minerva).

By private shuttle, the journey from Antigua to Xela should take just over 3 hours. Expect to pay approximately 175Q-200Q. These can also be arranged through your hostel or online.

Guided Tour vs Hiking Independently

Most of the time, I am very pro-hiking independently. However, this multi-day trek should be done with a guide, for the reasons outlined below.

NOTE: Several companies give back to the communities along the route, meaning that you will also be helping support the communities and local businesses by booking this hike with a guided tour.

Safety

As mentioned, the Xela to Lake Atitlan hike is largely safe. However, having a guide that knows the local area and villages, can speak Spanish, and has experience hiking the route is extremely valuable. Though I didn’t feel unsafe at any point throughout the three days, having someone to lead when avoiding any dogs, passing through private land, or navigating a more treacherous section of the hike is helpful. Plus any robberies on the Indian Nose Hike were avoided by taking an alternative route that our guide knew.

Navigation

The route from Xela to Lake Atitlan is made up of a series of small interconnected tracks which makes it difficult to navigate unless you know exactly where you’re going. Unfortunately, there are no online directions or maps of the route. The closest you will find to a route for the Xela to Lake Atitlan hike is the map I created below.

Though I’m sure it is possible to get there independently, having a guide to lead you through any less obvious sections is helpful.

Logistics

Without the homestay arrangements of the tour, I honestly couldn’t tell you where it would be possible to sleep. The tour companies have built close relationships with each of the villages to set up homestays, without this, there are no accommodation options in Komonoj for the first night of the hike.

Camping would be your only alternative. However, as you trek through the jungle, private property, and farmland, it’s difficult to pitch up a tent knowing for certain that it would be safe and acceptable.

Who to book the Xela to Lake Atitlan Hike with?

There are two main tour operators used for the Xela to Lake Atitlan hike. These are Quetzaltrekkers and Monteverde. Both offer largely the same experience; both require a deposit; both can provide gear, and both allow you to send your unwanted bags to Lake Atitlan. But here are the key differences:

Quetzaltrekkers is arguably the most popular company to book the hike with. They run their tours on Tuesdays and Saturdays which costs 950Q (120 USD) per person. They have a minimum group size of 5 people, making it a sociable hike. The company is volunteer-run, with all profits going into the community by supporting schools and shelters in Xela. During the hike, you are required to carry your own sleeping gear as well as your belongings for three days. They offer bag transport directly to Lake Atitlan for 100Q per bag. There is also a mandatory pre-brief for the hike at 6pm the day beforehand.

Monte Verde is less well-known, and slightly cheaper, costing 750Q (100 USD) per person. You can book a tour on any day of the week, as long as the total group has more than 2 people in total. Sleeping bags and roll mats were provided at each location rather than carrying them. They also offer free transport of additional bags to Lake Atitlan.

I personally opted for Monte Verde Tours and had a great experience. But spoke to several others who booked the hike with Quetzaltrekkers and also had a fantastic time.

What to Expect Hiking from Xela to Lake Atitlan

Bear in mind that different tour operators have slightly different arrangements with slightly different routes. Since I opted for Monte Verde, this section will contain details specific to this but most operators do something largely similar. Different walking groups will go at different paces because of varying group sizes, break lengths, and the general mood and athleticism of the group.

Day 1: Xela to K’omonoj

Distance: 21km
Walking Time: 9-10 hours
Starting Elevation: 2550m
Maximum Elevation: 3050m
Minimum Elevation: 1550m
Finishing Elevation: 2000m

On the first day, you will be picked up early (6am) from your accommodation in Xela and brought to the tour operator’s office. I recommend arriving in Xela the night before to ensure you don’t miss anything and can prepare everything you need for the next three days. Plus you will get more time to explore Xela!

NOTE: For anyone hiking with Quetzaltrekkers, arriving the day before means you won’t miss your 6pm briefing!

Before you set off, you will be briefed, bags checked and food supplies shared amongst you. This is your chance to trade out any gear that you may want to borrow such as rucksacks or clothes, as well as make arrangements for any unnecessary belongings to be sent to Lake Atitlan.

Once the group is ready, you will hop in a minivan to the start point of Xecam. We left at around 6:30am. Xecam is approximately 30 minutes drive to the edge of the city, at an altitude of 2550m. You will wave goodbye to the bus and it’s time to start hiking (7am)!

It’s straight uphill for the first hour along a forest trail. Though it starts off cold, you will soon warm up and need to start losing layers. Near the top, there is a clearing with spectacular views over the surrounding mountain range. You will be able to see Volcan Santa Maria in the distance.

As you emerge from the trees into grasslands and farmlands, the gradient plateaus for a while. You will maintain your highest altitude of around 3050m at Nuevo Xetinamit.

After a few more ups and downs, we stopped for a late lunch in Chiri’j Ximay. We spent around 45 minutes here to rest, prepare our food and eat before setting off again. The food was basic (sandwiches with plenty of filling) but tasty and there was plenty to go around. There is a small shop here where we bought some warm electrolyte drinks and snacks.

NOTE: Some groups stay overnight in the village of Chiri’j Ximay if the weather is bad.

From Chiri’j Ximay it’s a long way down via thin, winding jungle pathways. It’s steep and dusty, making grip quite difficult. It’s perhaps the only section where I wished I had better shoes.

Eventually, you will reach a clearing for Rio Nahualate. There is a wooden bridge across the river, before one final push to the end of Day 1. It’s a 30-minute climb back up the other side of the valley to reach the homestay in the village of K’omonoj.

We arrived at our homestay at around 16:30pm and were ready for a relaxed evening.

K’Omonoj Homestay

K’omonoj is a small, isolated village sitting in the mountains just north of Pala and San Miguelito.

The setup of the homestay was a little courtyard-esque layout with buildings scattered around. The village didn’t have road access from any direction and it was clear from all the fruit and vegetables being grown that they were pretty self-sufficient.

After catching our breaths from the toughest of the three days’ hiking, we checked out our sleeping arrangements. We had a separate room where our roll mats and sleeping bags had been laid out on the floor.

In terms of facilities, the homestay had a cold shower; a flushing toilet; plug sockets, and a man to buy water from. Most importantly, it also had a temescal (a traditional Central American sauna) to relax our muscles!

The homestay owners allowed us to use their temescal for a small additional fee. The temescal could fit two people (3 at a push) in at a time.

Meanwhile, our guide very kindly made us tea and cooked dinner. It was nice to sit around a table and chat while we ate. However, after a long day of hiking we were exhausted so went to bed early.

Day 2: K’omonoj to Santa Clara La Laguna

Distance: 12km
Walking Time: 5 hours
Starting Elevation: 2000m
Maximum Elevation: 2187m
Minimum Elevation: 1900m
Finishing Elevation: 2117m

Day 2 begins later than the first day, but it’s good to try and get out early to make the most of the cooler temperatures.

We headed uphill for most of the early part of the day. Then across undulating terrain for the next few hours. Nothing as steep or slippery as the day before.

As you get closer to civilisation, there is more dirt track and roadside hiking. That being said, the only traffic we came across was a horse carrying wood!

You will end day two of the Xela to Lake Atitlan hike in Santa Clara La Laguna, walking through the town to get to your homestay.

NOTE: If you are hiking with Quetzaltrekkers rather than Monte Verde, your overnight stay is in Xiprian on the outskirts of Santa Clara La Laguna.

Most groups arrive in the early afternoon at Santa Clara La Laguna, which is great for some downtime. After arriving at 13:30, we rested in our room for a while before heading into town to explore… and search for ice cream!

Santa Clara La Laguna Homestay

Our room in Santa Clara had a similar layout to the one in K’omonoj with roll mats and sleeping bags laid out on the floor. It wasn’t the most comfortable sleep in the world, but it was fine for the last night.

In terms of facilities, this homestay didn’t have a shower, but it did have another temescal which we washed in. It also didn’t have a flushing toilet, it was a bucket flush.

After another family dinner, we retreated to bed early because of the early start for sunrise the next morning.

Day 3: Santa Clara La Laguna to San Pedro La Laguna via the Indian Nose Sunrise Hike

Distance: 9km
Time: 5-6 hours (including time at the top and breakfast)
Starting Elevation: 2117m
Maximum Elevation: 2200m
Minimum Elevation: 1500m
Finishing Elevation: 1500m

It’s an early wakeup for this part of the hike but’s worth it. We left the homestay in Santa Clara at 4:30am with all of our belongings as we weren’t coming back. At that time of the morning, it’s pitch black so a headtorch or phone light is necessary.

NOTE: Some groups come back to the homestay for breakfast so don’t need to carry their bags or pack up.

After a short, flat walk out of town, it was time to climb up to the viewpoint. It’s a steep, thin path to the top of the Indian Nose. There is a wooden handrail for parts of the hike and there are a couple of sections where a rope has been attached to help you up.

We arrived at the summit well before 6am and it was still completely dark. In the high season (Dec-March) sunrise is later than it is in the summer months. Check out the sunrise times here.

Up at the viewing point, there is a two-tiered wooden shelter and additional space to stand. Wrap up warm, make yourself comfortable, and wait for the sunrise. More people will trickle up to the viewpoint from sunrise tours from San Pedro, but you can look on smugly knowing you’ve walked all the way from Xela!

After eating our breakfast, taking plenty of photos, and enjoying the sunrise we headed back down at around 7:30 am. We definitely hung around longer than most since we were the last to leave and had the viewpoint all to ourselves!

We followed the thin path back down. It’s important to hold on and stay focused as it’s easy to lose concentration and slip when you are tired.

Our guide paid the entrance fee (30Q per person) for the area as we left.

Instead of taking the most direct route back to San Pedro La Laguna, we split off and headed through some farmland. This route kept the views of Lake Atitlan on our left as we kept some of our altitudes.

After one last, steep jungle descent we joined the road and walked along the road to San Juan. We passed through the colourful town of San Juan and entered the west side of San Pedro La Laguna at around 10am.

We ended the hike at the drop-off point, just along the main strip of San Pedro, where we could finally relax and wait for our bags!

Route Map of the Xela to Lake Atitlan Hike

What to pack for the Xela to Lake Atitlan Hike

Firstly, you should check with your tour company what is provided. Some tours will require you to carry your own sleeping bag and roll mat, whilst other tours provide these at each homestay. This will impact how much you can fit in your bag.

Key items to consider are:

• Sleeping bag and roll mat

Both should be provided by the tour company. With Monte Verde tours, you will not need to carry them meaning that there was more space in your bag. Quetzaltrekkers hikers had to carry their sleeping bag and roll mat.

• Rucksack

Your bag should be at least 40 litres and preferably with hip straps. I used my Osprey Farpoint 40 travel bag which worked well, though most companies offer their own hiking equipment to borrow. If you are hiking during the wet season, make sure that everything fits inside your bag rather than clipping anything on the outside. Plus a waterproof cover would be helpful.

• Walking shoes or trainers.

Make sure you have some comfortable and worn-in shoes that are suitable for hiking. Walking boots or shoes are ideal, but trainers will suffice.

• Hiking clothes

Wear whatever you are comfortable hiking in. A sweat-wicking top is usually a good idea. I opted for hiking shorts rather than trousers due to personal preference however, you may prefer to wear trousers for protection from insects and branches. Hiking socks to avoid blisters are also a useful addition. A cap and/or sunglasses are also good for sun protection.

• Warm clothes

Nights on the hike can get pretty cold due to the altitude and lack of building insulation! Plus the sunrise hike up to Rostra Maya (and waiting for the sunrise) can get bitterly cold when exposed to the wind! I recommend packing clothes that layer easily, a fleece, and some trousers.

Unlike the Acatenango hike, you won’t need anything thicker than this. Whilst you’re hiking, you stay mostly warm, especially during the day. For the evenings, a fleece should suffice before you get into your sleeping bag. On the morning of the sunrise hike, I wore my trousers over my shorts until it got warm. It’s up to you if you want to carry a hat and gloves should you get cold easily.

• Change of clothes for each day

The first day can get very sweaty so bring a fresh top and underwear for the second day. It’s up to you if you want to re-use clothes for the final day given that it’s just a half-day. I opted for clean underwear and a top but re-used my walking socks and shorts. A long shower was needed in Lake Atitlan!

Swimming trunks (or a swimsuit) for the temescal are another optional change of clothes. Sadly, there wasn’t anywhere else on the hike to swim.

• Raincoat

Rainy Season in Guatemala is from May to October. If you are hiking around this time, pack a rain jacket. Make sure to check the weather forecast for Xela and Lake Atitlan even if you are hiking during the dry season.

It’s never a bad decision to pack a lightweight raincoat just in case.

• Camera

When travelling anywhere beautiful, I always try to pack my camera. Though I’m glad I packed my camera, I didn’t use it as much as I thought I would because of the jungle cover and the time spent walking.

Just remember everything you pack in your bag you will have to carry for the next three days. And if you do bring your camera, make sure it’s easily accessible. Don’t shove it at the very bottom of your rucksack, otherwise, you won’t be bothered to re-pack your bag each time you want to take some snaps!

• Chargers and Battery Pack

There were charging ports at both of our homestays. If you don’t want to rely on this, packing a battery pack that lasts for the whole three days is sensible.

• Wash gear

I’ll be honest, I was pretty grubby by the end of the hike with all the sweat and dust that I’d accumulated. But I was glad that I brought a small wash bag with the essentials (towel, toothbrush, toothpaste, deodorant, shower gel, tissues, first aid kit, blister plasters, anti-bac, insect repellant, and suncream).

• Headtorch or flashlight

On the final night, you will be hiking in the dark before the sun rises. A phone torch will suffice if you would prefer to save on weight and space.

• Snacks

The food supplied by tour companies is generally filling. However, these will only fill you up at specific meal times. It’s good to have some snacks to keep you sustained and full of energy whilst you’re hiking. Some great hiking snacks include nuts, fruit (non-squishable), and granola bars.

• Water

Bring 2-3 litres of water. I personally packed 2 litres as I conserve my water when hiking. There are opportunities to buy water at the first homestay. There is also a place to buy drinks en route, but don’t rely on this.

• Money

There are a handful of places to buy snacks and drinks along the trail so have cash (Quetzales) available.

• Other personal items

I didn’t pack anything more than what has been listed above. But this is a reminder to pack anything else specific to you that you need to bring such as glasses, contact lenses, medication, binoculars etc…

• Anything you are not comfortable giving away

If you don’t feel comfortable sending personal or valuable items to Lake Atitlan to meet you at the end of the hike, your next best option is to carry them with you!

Hints and Tips for the Xela to Lake Atitlan Hike

Go during the dry season (April-November)

This isn’t to say that you won’t have a good time in the other months, BUT the hike is much more pleasant when the sun is shining and the trails aren’t muddy. When there are clear skies, you can see as far as Fuego Volcano in Antigua plus the sunrise is much more impressive without clouds!

Get a good sleep the night before

Before taking on the Xela to Lake Atitlan hike, it’s important to get a good night’s sleep so you are fully rested before three days of exertion. At least two of the days have a particularly early start, so schedule some rest while you have the chance. I stayed in Kasa Kiwi hostel which was nice and quiet.

Pack light and bring a bag with hip straps

Since you’ll be carrying your rucksack up and over mountains for the next three days, make sure you are comfortable so you can enjoy the walk and the scenery. Having a bag with hip straps will take the weight off of your back and make everything much more bearable.

Be selective about what you bring with you. The packing suggestions I have given above are everything that you could need for the hike. If there is anything that you think you might not need, don’t bring it.

Share with your group

Avoid bringing two tubes of toothpaste, two bottles of sun cream, or two multi-socket chargers. If you know your buddies before this hike, communicate what you’re packing so you cover all bases between you and can save on unnecessary weight.

Bring extra snacks

Maybe this is because I eat a lot and think with my stomach… But grab plenty of snacks before you leave. I’d rather carry slightly more weight and have the energy to carry it, rather than be dead on my feet and have no little pick-me-ups to munch on!

Wear insect repellant

There are lots of biting insects in the jungle, so load up on mosquito spray before your walk. But also, use the spray in the evenings and at night too! Some of the homestays are very isolated and have all sorts of bugs flying around.

Shout out to my hiking buddy who got bitten by a botfly and had the larva removed months later… (sorry for exposing you if you’re reading this).

Book somewhere nice in Lake Atitlan

After three days of hiking, you’ll be wanting to relax for a few days around the lake. At least for the first night or two, pick somewhere pleasant where you can spend some time relaxing.

Where to stay in Lake Atitlan

Around Lake Atitlan, you are spoilt for choice with hostels, hotels, Airbnbs, and resorts to stay at.

You should arrive in San Pedro (Lake Atitlan) late morning on the third day of the trek. Any bags that you requested should arrive at a similar time, or early that afternoon. This means you will have time to catch a boat to any other town on the lake and you are not restricted to booking accommodation in San Pedro.

Though, if you do choose San Pedro, this gives you plenty of time to find your accommodation and settle for the rest of the day.

NOTE: The are lots of hostels in San Pedro that aren’t listed on Hostelworld, so make sure to check out other sites like Booking.com.

I will be writing another post on the best places to stay in Lake Atitlan, but here are my top choices:

Other hikes in Lake Atitlan

Since you’re reading this blog post, I’m assuming you enjoy hiking and aren’t just looking for a way to get from Xela to Lake Atitlan. Hint: the bus is a lot quicker than walking!

So here are a few more hikes to check out once you arrive in Lake Atitlan.

• San Marcos to Santa Cruz (Lower Mayan Trail): Lakeside hike with the best views of the three volcanoes.
• Ruta la Finca: Short hike to a black-sand beach.
• San Pedro Volcano: The most popular volcano hike in Lake Atitlan.
• Toliman Volcano: A Two peak hike on the volcano nearest the lake.
• Volcan Atitlan: The highest viewpoint around Lake Atitlan.

Other hikes in Xela

• Volcan Tajamulco: The highest point in Central America (4220m).
• Volcan Santa Maria: The most scenic hike in Xela, with views over Santiaguito volcano.
• Santiaguito Mirador: Shorter hike to the viewpoint overlooking the crater.
• Cerro El Baul: Short hike to a viewpoint overlooking Quetzaltenango.
• Laguna de Chicabal: Short hike to a sacred crater lake.

My honest review of the Xela to Lake Atitlan Hike

Before I went on this hike, I hadn’t spoken to anyone with any personal experience of doing the Xela to Lake Atitlan hike. It was a bit of a step into the unknown, so I want to give my honest feedback so that others can decide for themselves.

I arrived in Xela, spent a few days there, and was pleasantly surprised. There wasn’t loads to do in the city, nor is there a backpacker presence. Instead, it’s a place where people live rather than a place people visit. It’s fine for a stopover before the hike or a place to settle for a while. If I had travelled there solo looking for a ‘normal’ backpacker experience, I may have felt isolated as it isn’t a backpacker city.

The first day was a slog. It was an early start and it seemed to be up and down for hours. It was a test of fitness and endurance that had me questioning things at times. Particularly when our guide’s definition of ‘nearly there’ or ’10 more minutes’ did not align with ours. I appreciated the later start on the second day

After two days of intense hiking, the Indian Nose hike actually felt quite short. At the bottom, I was glad that it was over. My body wasn’t used to hiking regularly, nor waking up at silly o’clock in the morning! Once I’d had time to rest, I can look back at the experience a lot more fondly.

Hiking aside the experience as a whole, seeing parts of Guatemala that very few others see; experiencing a temescal for the first time; meeting the families at our homestay; laughing with our guide was really what made it.

For the price of the three days of hiking, it was very worth it! If you have the time, I would definitely recommend this hike. Going on a multi-day hike is great, and this is one of the better ones in Guatemala. Unlike the Acatenango hike which is up and down, the Xela to Lake Atitlan hike feels more like a trek.

Before you go

Thank you for reading my travel guide on the Xela to Lake Atitlan hike. If guides, itineraries, and travel content like this interest you, head over to my blog page to find out more.

If you are new to Matt’s Next Steps, check out the About Me page to find out a bit more about who I am, my travel adventures, and why I wanted to become a travel writer.

Please comment below and let me know your thoughts and experiences, or if there is anything else you want information on.

Happy hiking!