3 Month West Africa Itinerary: My Complete Overland Route

3 Month West Africa Itinerary: My Complete Overland Route

I’ve always been fascinated by the idea of crossing an entire region overland. Watching the landscapes, cultures, languages, and people change gradually as the miles tick by.

After travelling Central Asia overland a few months prior – taking on Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan, I was ready for the next challenge: West Africa!

This part of the world has a reputation for being difficult to travel. The questionable roads, unpredictable public transport, limited tourist infrastructure, and safety concerns, to name just a few. Yet despite all of that, overlanding West Africa by public transport was (without a doubt) one of the most rewarding trips I’ve ever done!

Over three months, I travelled from Morocco to Ghana, crossing deserts, tropical coastlines, vibrant cities, remote villages, and some of the least-visited countries I’ve ever explored.

In this guide, I’ll share my 3-month West Africa itinerary, including every country I visited, how I travelled between countries (and borders), how long I spent in each place, costs, safety considerations, what I’d change and more! I’ve included a few minor changes from my actual route to help out anyone taking on this part of the world themselves.

West Africa Itinerary in Short

3 Month West Africa Itinerary in Full

How long do you need in West Africa?

West Africa is a different beast from anywhere I’ve travelled before. Whilst the distances on a map can look small, everything takes so much longer than you’d expect!

I spent just over 10 weeks travelling West Africa, eventually flying home from Accra because of the direct flights back to London.

It felt like enough to get a genuine taste of the region. But having those extra couple of weeks would’ve allowed for a slower pace and more flexibility (at a higher cost).

If you’re planning a similar overland trip, I recommend three months for a West Africa itinerary. That gives you enough time to get a flavour from each country! You won’t see everywhere in complete depth, but you’ll come away having experienced a solid amount of the region.

Could you do it faster? Absolutely! But one of the joys of travelling in West Africa is allowing room for the unexpected. And if you do have less time, don’t rush – just fly home from a different country.

When to visit West Africa

The best time to visit West Africa is during the dry months, which runs roughly from November-April. Exact weather patterns vary between countries, so I recommend researching each country individually to make sure.

During these months, roads are in better condition and activities are easier to enjoy!

My roadtrip across West Africa lasted from mid-February until early May. It worked out almost perfectly! We left just as the wet season was about to arrive in Ghana, Togo, Benin and Nigeria.

Once the rains start, travel becomes more difficult with dirt roads turning to mud, which means more delays and difficult journeys! Especially in more remote regions.

West Africa Travel Route Map

If you’re looking to follow my route across West Africa, below is a map. I technically started in North Africa, in Morocco. But I essentially hugged the coast for the majority of the route.

I detoured inland for anything I particularly wanted to see, such as the highlands in Guinea and also Burkina Faso.

Morocco

Having previously travelled Morocco and visited Marrakech and the Atlas Mountains, I was less concerned about exploring the country on this trip.

Instead, I used Morocco as my gateway into West Africa. I flew (via Madrid) to Dakhla in the far south of the country. Located on a narrow peninsula stretching into the Atlantic, it’s considered part of the disputed Western Sahara region. As such, it felt very different from the Morocco that I already knew!

NOTE: You can fly into Marrakech and explore the rest of Morocco first if you prefer.

Anyway, in Dakhla, you’ll find vast empty beaches, beautiful sand dunes, and some of the best kite surfing in the world!

Overall if felt pretty relaxed and low-key compared to other places in Morocco. Whilst some areas are run-down, some have clearly had plenty of investment – we even stumbled across several empty luxury beach resorts.

Whilst I mainly treated Dakhla as a start-point for the rest of my West Africa overland route, I could see the potential. It wouldn’t surprise me if it becomes a much more popular destination in the coming years.

But after all the beaches and relaxation, we took a bus from Dakhla directly to the Mauritanian border. It was a pleasant journey with air-conditioning and filled with other backpackers ready to take on the infamous iron ore train.

Mauritania

The border: The Morocco-Mauritania border took several hours: a couple of passport checks and lots of waiting around… At least the famously long no-mans-land (which is also a known minefield) made it a bit more interesting. Just don’t leave the paved road!

Once across, I headed south to Nouakchott – Mauritania’s sandy capital. Whilst it’s not the most inspiring city in West Africa, it’s an essential stop for organising cash, SIM cards, supplies, and transport for the journey ahead.

Plus there’s a few things to do like visiting Port de Pêche or the famous camel market!

After Nouakchott, I travelled into the heart of the country, passing through Atar (a popular transit point which connects much of Mauritania).

Then onwards to the desert town of Chinguetti. This is the last stop before the Sahara, where you can find incredible dunes and visit historic libraries with ancient scriptures.

We then backtracked to Terjit Oasis – one of the most surprising stops on this whole overland trip!

Hidden amongst the arid landscape are natural springs, palm trees, and shaded canyons. It’s great for relaxing, enjoying the scenery or even hiking. I’ve written a full guide about visiting Terjit here.

But the highlight of Mauritania was still to come!

Our last excitement off the Mauritania segment of this West Africa overland trip was the infamous iron ore train through the Sahara – one of the longest trains in the world!

We spent the next 12 hours having a thrill-ride through the desert! Incredible scenery and an insane sunrise.

It’s a bit of a rite of passage for many overlanders and easily one of the most memorable travel experiences I’ve ever had. We got off in Nouadhibou before completing the loop and returning to Nouakchott.

Check out my full 1-week Mauritania itinerary to find out exactly how to travel the country.

Senegal

The border: After a dusty off-road drive from Nouakchott to the Mauritania-Senegal border, the crossing itself was a breeze! VISA-free for me, meant it was a quick stamp and I was in!

I arrived in Senegal with so much promise! After a week of Saharan adventures, I was excited for some more development and much less sand!

Senegal felt like a completely different world to Mauritania. The roads improved, the food became more varied, the infrastructure felt more developed, and there was a noticeable increase in tourism. It was exactly the reset I needed.

Many travellers crossing from Mauritania into Senegal, stop in Saint-Louis, Senegal’s historic colonial city. Unfortunately, with our somewhat strict timeline, we decided to skip it and continue to Dakar. It’s one of the places I’d most like to return to on a future trip.

After the intensity of Mauritania, Dakar was the perfect place to slow down for a few days. Between the beaches, excellent food, lively atmosphere, and surprisingly good surf scene, it quickly became one of my favourite cities in West Africa.

I also spent time visiting Goree Island, one of the most important historical sites in Senegal. Like Cape Coast and Elmina later in the trip, it provides a sobering insight into the history of the transatlantic slave trade.

Dakar is also one of the best places in West Africa to organise visas, stock up on supplies, and prepare for the next stages of your journey.

After catching the overnight ferry from Dakar to Ziguinchor, we then arrived in the south of Senegal, which was easily my favourite part of the country.

The Casamance region is noticably greener and slower paced. The coastline feels far more tropical than anywhere further north and there are lots of mangroves. I based myself around Cap Skirring, a laidback beach spot known for golden sand, palm trees and chill vibes.

Check out my 1 or 2 week Senegal itinerary to find out exactly how to travel Senegal.

Gambia

Of course, whilst we were already in southern Senegal, we didn’t want to miss out on The Gambia.

It required a slight detour north, but it was surprisingly straightforward. We’d already survived the chaos of Ziguinchor’s bus terminal once, and the border itself was quick thanks to visa-free entry for British citizens (and many other Europeans).

We based ourselves around Senegambia, near the capital of Banjul.

And honestly, it wasn’t quite what I expected…

After weeks travelling through Morocco, Mauritania, and Senegal, arriving in a resort area filled with British pubs, package holidays, and all-inclusive hotels felt like a fever dream! At times, it felt more like parts of Spain than West Africa.

The Gambia also has a well-documented reputation for sex tourism (older European women and young local men). It’s something that becomes fairly apparent once you spend time in the main tourist areas. It certainly creates a very different atmosphere compared to neighbouring Senegal.

That said, it was nice to enjoy a few Western comforts for a couple of days. The beaches were pleasant, accommodation was reasonable, and it provided an easy break before heading back onto the more challenging overland route. It certainly made me more eager to experience a deeper, more-authentic side to West Africa.

Whilst in the area, I visited the sacred crocodile pool at Kachikally, spent time walking along the coastline, had a few beers, and generally enjoyed slowing down for a few days.

Looking back, I’m glad I visited. But if I was repeating this exact route with limited time, I’d probably spend longer exploring Casamance in southern Senegal instead. Either that, or I’d head inland, up the river to find something more authentic.

Guinea-Bissau

Guinea-Bissau was one of the biggest surprises of my entire West Africa route.

Before arriving, I’d heard mostly horror stories about the roads. In fact, several travellers told me they were the worst roads in West Africa. Having now experienced them for myself, I can’t really argue!

But beyond the potholes and dust, I found a country with a unique identity, strong Portuguese influences, friendly people, and far more tourism potential than it currently receives.

We began in the capital, Bissau. It felt surprisingly clean and fresh given the incredibly dusty roads to get there!

There aren’t dozens of attractions to tick off, but that’s part of the charm. I’ve written a complete guide on everything to do in Bissau here. I recommend a day or two here, but no more.

After a couple of days in the capital, we headed to the true highlight of any trip to Guinea-Bissau: the Bijagós Archipelago (Bissagos Islands).

Scattered across the Atlantic, a group of 88 stunning islands, many of which remain untouched by tourism. Here you’ll find deserted beaches, traditional villages, abandoned cities, and wildlife-rich mangroves (including one of the only places you can find saltwater hippopotamus!

What was supposed to be a short visit quickly turned into a much longer stay as we explored more islands. Beautiful scenery, no crowds and an infrequent ferry timetable made it hard to leave!

Guinea

Guinea was another major highlight of my entire West Africa overland route.

In fact, it’s one of the countries on this trip that I know I’ll return to one day. I only scratched the surface and left with a long list of places I still want to explore.

Rather than spending time in Conakry, we headed straight for the Fouta Djallon highlands in central Guinea. Getting there was an adventure in itself. From the Bijagós Islands, we travelled back through Bissau, crossed the country to Gabu, entered Guinea, then continued onwards towards Labé before finally reaching the small village of Doucki.

It was the most horrendous journey of the trip, but I like to think it was worth it!

After so much time in coastal regions with relatively flat landscapes, arriving in Fouta Djallon felt totally different! The scenery suddenly switched into rolling green highlands, dramatic cliffs, waterfalls, deep valleys, and some of the best hiking anywhere in West Africa.

We based ourselves in Doucki for several days, spending our time exploring the surrounding trails and viewpoints. It was easily some of the best hiking in West Africa, plus a welcome break from the constant transport days that often come with overlanding this region.

If you enjoy nature, hiking, and getting off the beaten path, Fouta Djallon should be near the top of your West Africa itinerary.

I’ve written a complete guide to hiking in Fouta Djallon, which covers the region in much more detail.

Sierra Leone

Despite several people telling us it wasn’t possible, we travelled all the way from Doucki in Fouta Djallon to Freetown in Sierra Leone in one day!

It was pretty long, and I’m not sure I’d recommend it, especially given as things became quite tight at the border.

Many travellers choose to break the journey in Conakry, Guinea’s capital. There’s even a ferry crossing from Conakry to Freetown, but I couldn’t justify the extra cost ($100). And having already survived Guinea-Bissau’s roads, the Guinean roads didn’t seem quite so bad anymore!

Freetown was probably my favourite capital city from the whole of our West Africa overland route. Built amongst steep green hills overlooking the Atlantic, it has far more character than other cities. After several weeks of French-speaking countries, being back in an English-speaking country was also a welcome change.

We spent a few days enjoying the city, visiting viewpoints, relaxing on nearby beaches, and sorting out VISAs for the next few countries (Ivory Coast and Liberia). It’s one of those capitals that’s surprisingly easy to enjoy, even if there aren’t countless tourist attractions.

That said, Sierra Leone’s real highlights lie outside the capital.

The country is home to beautiful islands (like Banana Island), pristine beaches, rainforest reserves, and some of the friendliest people I met anywhere in West Africa.

One of my favourite experiences was visiting Tiwai Island – our next stop.

Simply getting there felt like an adventure. Once we turned off of Sierra Leone’s surprisingly smooth highways, the shared taxis gave way to motorbikes, as we headed deeper into rural Sierra Leone. The journey is rewarded with a small island nature reserve surrounded by rainforest and wildlife, offering a completely different side to the country.

It’s one of the few places you can find pygmy hippos in the wild!

Sadly we didn’t spot any, but Tiwai remains one of the most memorable places I visited during my time in West Africa.

From Tiwai Island, we continued towards the Liberia border. It wasn’t the simplest to get there, but we arranged bikes from Tiwai (which is fairly standard when travelling through this part of West Africa).

The border crossing was surprisingly relaxed. After a few bag checks and a passport stamp in a small hut on the Liberian side, we exchanged money, bought SIM cards, and continued towards Monrovia.

Liberia

Liberia was one of the countries I was most curious about before arriving.

Founded by freed American slaves, it has a unique history compared to the rest of West Africa, and that influence is still visible today. English is also the official language, though it wasn’t necessarily English as I understand it…

We didn’t spend long in the capital and, if I’m honest, it wasn’t one of my favourite places on the trip. I didn’t feel unsafe, but more than anywhere else, I got strange looks.

Whilst there are a few things to do in Monrovia (historical sites and beaches), I found myself much more excited about what lay beyond the city.

For me, the real highlight of Liberia was the Nimba region in the northeast of the country.

Home to Liberia’s highest mountains, mist-covered forests, and some of the best hiking in West Africa, it felt completely different from the rest of the country. The scenery was beautiful, the temperatures slightly cooler, and the trails far more rewarding than I had expected.

Whether you’re hiking Mount Nimba itself or trekking to the tri-border point between Liberia, Guinea, and Ivory Coast, this is easily one of the most memorable outdoor destinations in the region.

Liberia may not have been my favourite country overall, but the Nimba region alone made the journey worthwhile. Plus it was conveniently located not far from the border with Ivory Coast.

Ivory Coast

Moving back into French-speaking territory, I had big expectations for Ivory Coast. Thankfully, it completely lived up to them!

After crossing from Liberia, we made our way to Man, a small city surrounded by mountains, waterfalls, and some of the best scenery we’d seen since leaving Guinea. We spent a few days here – hiking Dent de Man, swimming beneath waterfalls, and generally slowing the pace down after some long travel days.

If you’re travelling overland through West Africa, I think Man deserves a place on almost every itinerary. Especially given it’s location near the border with Liberia!

The real highlight, however, was Taï National Park.

Despite the surprisingly difficult journey from Man, the effort was more than worthwhile. We spent two nights deep inside the largest remaining primary rainforest in West Africa, tracking semi-habituated chimpanzees in the wild.

Watching wild chimps moving through the forest only metres away was one of the most surreal and insane wildlife experiences I’ve ever had. Even now, it’s one of the standout memories from my entire West Africa trip.

From the rainforest, we continued east towards Abidjan.

As the largest and most developed city in West Africa, I arrived expecting plenty to do. In reality, I found it more useful than exciting. After weeks of rough roads, border crossings, jungle trekking, and basic accommodation, it was exactly the place we needed to recharge.

We spent several days catching up on laundry after the jungle, enjoying good coffee, applying for our Ghana visas, and resting before the next stage of the journey. Sometimes that’s exactly what an overland trip needs.

Then we headed up to Yamoussoukro, Ivory Coast’s political capital. The city itself is fairly quiet, but it’s home to the Basilica of Our Lady of Peace, officially the largest church in the world by area (covering over 30,000 square meters)!

Looking back, Ivory Coast was one of the biggest surprises of the entire route. Between the mountains around Man, the chimpanzees of Taï National Park, and the contrast between remote villages and modern Abidjan, it offered far more variety than I expected.

Burkina Faso

Burkina Faso was probably the country we researched the most before arriving. Given the security situation, we spent a lot of time deciding whether it was a sensible addition to the route. After all, Burkina is very much an inland detour from the rest of this West African coastal route!

We decided that yes, it was fine (March 2026), and it ended up being one of the best decisions we could’ve made!

After an overnight bus from Yamoussoukro (Côte d’Ivoire) we arrived in Banfora – a relaxed town in the west of the country, surrounded by nature. It was a refreshing change to be somewhere so quiet and green!

We spent several days exploring the area, visiting waterfalls, hiking through rocky landscapes, and even searching for hippos. I’ve written a full guide on things to do in Banfora here.

One thing I noticed overlanding West Africa is that it’s easy to fall into a rhythm of hopping between capitals and coastal towns. The major roads, infrastructure, and transport links all tend to follow the coastline. Banfora was a welcome reminder that West Africa isn’t just beaches and cities if you’re willing to venture slightly inland.

From Banfora, we continued deeper into Burkina Faso, towards Bobo-Dioulasso and Ouagadougou. I still think these are two of the best city names in Africa.

Bobo-Dioulasso is widely considered Burkina Faso’s cultural capital. It has a laid-back atmosphere, a beautiful old quarter, lively music scene, and far more character than many of the region’s larger capitals.

Meanwhile, Ouagadougou (or simply “Ouaga” as everyone calls it), is the political capital of Burkina Faso. While it lacks the obvious attractions of some neighbouring capitals, it gave us a fascinating glimpse into daily life in one of West Africa’s least-visited countries.

Check out my guide on things to do in Bobo-Dioulasso or things to do in Ouagadougou here.

Ghana

Our first stop was Tamale, reached directly after crossing the northern border from Burkina Faso.

Known as the capital of northern Ghana, Tamale feels very different from the more-familiar coastal cities. The north has a much stronger Muslim influence compared to the Christian-majority south, making it an interesting place to experience a different side of Ghana.

We only stayed briefly as we were mainly passing through on the way to Mole National Park. That said, Tamale is well connected with its own airport if you’re looking for a quicker way in or out of northern Ghana.

Mole National Park was incredible – one of the highlights of our West Africa journey. It’s one of the best places to see wild elephants at a super cheap price! I’ve written a separate guide on exactly how to visit Mole National Park here.

From northern Ghana, I travelled south towards Accra, Ghana’s lively capital city. Accra is a huge contrast to Tamale, with busy streets, modern cafés, markets, nightlife and a strong creative scene. While many travellers use Accra mainly as a transport hub, I think it’s worth spending a bit of time exploring.

From Accra, I continued along Ghana’s coastline, visiting Cape Coast and Elmina. These towns are home to some of the country’s most important historical sites, including the castles that played a central role in the transatlantic slave trade. Visiting places like Cape Coast Castle is a sobering but essential experience, offering an opportunity to learn more about one of the darkest periods of history.

After exploring the coast, I continued east towards Wli, one of Ghana’s most beautiful natural areas. The main attraction here is Wli Waterfalls – the highest waterfall in West Africa surrounded by beautiful mountain scenery.

If you’re planning on visiting, check out my guide on hiking in Wli and how to visit the waterfalls.

NOTE: Ghana was where my own West Africa route came to an end. However, one of my friends continued overland through Togo and Benin, so this final section of the West Africa itinerary is based on his experience.

Togo

After finishing up in Ghana, the route continues east into Togo. It’s a pretty small country that often gets overlooked compared to its larger neighbours.

The first major stop was Lomé, Togo’s capital and one of the more relaxed coastal capitals in West Africa. Unlike the huge, chaotic feel of some African cities, Lomé is more laid-back with palm-lined beaches.

From Lomé, the route continued inland towards Kpalimé, one of Togo’s most beautiful regions. Surrounded by lush mountains, waterfalls and tropical scenery, Kpalimé is a welcome contrast to the busy coastline.

The area is great for hiking, with trails leading through forests and towards waterfalls such as Cascade de Womé. It’s also known as a centre for arts and crafts, making it a great place to slow down and experience a different side of Togo.

Benin

The final country on this West Africa overland route was Benin – a country with one of the richest histories and most fascinating cultures in the region.

After crossing from Togo, the route continued towards Ouidah, one of Benin’s most important historical towns. Ouidah played a central role in the transatlantic slave trade and today is home to several important sites, including the Route des Esclaves (Slave Route) and the Door of No Return – similar to Senegal!

From Ouidah, the route continued towards Cotonou, Benin’s largest city and economic centre. While Cotonou can feel busy and chaotic at first, it’s a fascinating place to experience everyday life in Benin.

One of the biggest highlights is the famous Ganvié stilt village, often described as the “Venice of Africa”. Built on Lake Nokoué, the village is home to thousands of people living in houses constructed above the water. Exploring Ganvié by boat offers a completely different perspective on life in Benin, which you can do as a day trip from Cotonou.

Budget for West Africa

To put it plainly, West Africa isn’t as cheap as you might expect!

Lots of people were very surprised when I told them that, but the combination of expensive VISAs, awkward travel and limited hostels makes costs creep up. Well, at least compared to my normal Southeast Asia budget!

Over the course of 10 weeks in West Africa, I spent a total of ~£4000 (excluding VISAs). This averages at £56 daily spend.

NOTE: This doesn’t include Togo or Benin.

VISAs (and their priority fees) cost me another ~£582, but let’s round up to £600.

• Morocco (FREE)
• Mauritania (55 euro e-VISA = £48)
• Senegal (FREE)
• Guinea-Bissau (25,000 CFA Embassy VISA = £33)
• Guinea (80 euro e-VISA = £70)
• Sierra Leone ($80 VISA on arrival = £60)
• Liberia (170 USD Embassy VISA = £128)
• Ivory (90 USD Embassy VISA = £68)
• Burkina (£100 e-VISA)
• Ghana ($100 USD Embassy VISA = £75)

This brings my total spend in West Africa to £4600. An average spend of £65/day.

VISAs aside, my spending was a relatively even split between transport, accommodation and then food/activities. Combined, transport and accommodation were about 50% of my West Africa spend.

I will be writing a full cost breakdown in a separate West Africa budget post soon!

Is West Africa Safe?

This is the golden question!

But, I have to question – is anywhere really safe? Even living in London, I’ve had my own negative experiences!

In three months in West Africa, I didn’t have a single safety issue. Admittedly, I didn’t take many risks. I travelled predominantly during the daytime, with two close (male) friends, and in areas we’d researched heavily.

So whilst there are risks, there are also ways to mitigate them!

I can’t say that there aren’t any dangers in West Africa! I wouldn’t walk around alone at night in certain places. Nor would I flash my cash or valuables around in markets (or anywhere in the world).

I heard of several bikepackers being robbed from their tents at night; people being attacked by people on drugs; and even extortion from police or other authorities.

One risk I need to highlight is (unfortunately, one that’s difficult to mitigate) – the roads!

In three months, I was in 3 minor accidents… Road safety or rules aren’t a thing, and couple that with the quality of roads and vehicles and general chaos, accidents are bound to happen. Most vehicles don’t have seatbelts either…

Border Crossings

I covered all of the land borders between Morocco and Ghana, here are my thoughts on each:

• Morocco-Mauritania border: Slow and chaotic, but there is a system (somewhere).
• Mauritania-Senegal border: I chose the Diama border over the Rosso border. If you have the VISA, it doesn’t take long.
• Senegal-Gambia border: Super easy.
• Senegal-Bissau border: Very easy as well.
• Bissau-Guinea border: Went through a very remote border crossing. Nobody there. A quick stamp and pause for a drink before getting on the road again.
• Guinea-Sierra Leone border: The building is relatively drawn out. People will point you in the right direction. We arrived just before it closed.
• Sierra Leone-Liberia border: A bit complicated. Each section is far from the next – so a bike rider helped us get from one section to the next. I had my bag searched twice, and then was asked several questions on arrival.
• Liberia-Ivory Coast border: Didn’t give me a good vibe exiting Liberia, but an official was very kind and helped us. Super easy on the Ivory Coast side, but they did check our Yellow Fever certificates.
• Ivory Coast-Burkina Faso border: A bit chaotic. Slow checks. Vaccinations happening on arrival for those without Yellow Fever (and Meningitis) vaccines.
• Burkina Faso-Ghana border: Lots of security, very slow.

The easiest border in my opinion is the one between Gambia and Senegal. No VISA required and they’re so used to people travelling between the two. Especially given that Senegal is The Gambia’s only land border!

Meanwhile, the hardest is much trickier to decide, as I didn’t face any difficulties. The Morocco-Mauritania border was one of the slowest. Meanwhile, the bag searches at the Liberia border were particularly annoying.

VISAs in West Africa

The first thing I’ll say if you’re planning an overland trip across West Africa is that VISAs are one of the most difficult things.

This is because the systems and requirements are always changing, embassies aren’t the most reliable (nor are online systems) and even then borders are known to be tricky.

As of 2026, and a UK citizen, here is what I did:

• Morocco: VISA-free
• Mauritania: e-VISA
• Senegal: VISA-free
• Gambia: VISA-free
• Guinea-Bissau: Embassy VISA (done in Ziguinchor)
• Guinea: e-VISA
• Sierra Leone: VISA on arrival
• Liberia: Embassy VISA
• Ivory Coast: Embassy VISA
• Burkina Faso: e-VISA
• Ghana: Embassy VISA

Transport In West Africa

Transport in in this region is extremely varied! During my 3 months in West Africa, I used so many different forms of transport.

• Tuk-tuks: Not in every country, but cities in Sierra Leone, Liberia, Senegal all use them.
• Sept-place: Usually 7-seaters, these vehicles follow particular routes like buses (except they’re often cars)
• Taxi (app): Apps like Yango and Uber are used in different regions of West Africa.
• Taxi: Where apps aren’t in use, taxi-hailing from the street is the best way to get around locally.
• Pirogue: Small, canoe-like boats with a motor at the back. Not the most reliable, but good for short crossings.
• Ferry: From overnight ferries in Senegal to short-distance ones in Bissau, I always enjoyed them as it’s a refreshing break from being cramped in an over-filled vehicle!
• Coach: More common the further south you go, I began using coaches to get around in Ivory Coast, Burkina Faso and Ghana.
• Public bus: Most cities had public bus networks. Not always the easiest to figure out, but when you do they’re very cheap and an authentic way to see the community.
• Mini-bus: Like marshrutkas in Central Asia, these are essentially minibuses which fill up. They squeeze you in, so I often found myself buying an extra seat. You’ll sometimes have to pay for your baggage as well.
• Bike: To my surprise, motorbikes are a particularly popular form of transport in some regions. Guinea and Sierra Leone were particularly big on them.
• Motocaro: I’d probably describe these as a rusty shed on wheels. Not comfortable, but good enough to move you from A to B. Great for lumping a load of people in the back for short distances.

Throughout my time travelling West Africa, I tried to avoid travelling at night wherever possible.

That said, I got one night bus from Ivory Coast to Burkina Faso, crossing the border at 4am… Then another night bus from Tamale to Accra. After breakdowns and delays, a couple of long journeys also ended up going deep into the night…

I never enjoyed arriving somewhere in the dark, but we did not have any issues (thankfully).

Having had positive expereinces throughout my trip, it’s important to flag some safety concerns in the region. There is a lot of petty crime, particularly aimed at tourists. I heard stories of cyclists and bikepackers being attacked in tents at night, as well as other thefts in the street.

Highlights In West Africa

Going away for 2-3 months anywhere is an experience, but there are a few standouts from 3 months in West Africa:

• Iron Ore Train (Mauritania): One of the most unique and adventurous things in the world!
• Chimp Trekking (Ivory Coast): West Africa isn’t known for its wildlife bu
• Tiwai (Sierra Leone): Not just for the stunning nature, but we camped in a village and had a very authentic experience with them.
• Hiking in Fouta Djallon (Guinea): I always love hiking, but going somewhere that feels so truly remote and untouched was very special. Plus, our guide Hassan was incredible!
• Safari in Mole National Park (Ghana): You can never get tired of seeing elephants up close. Letalone whilst on foot and for less than £5!

FAQs

Can you travel West Africa independently?

Yes, you can – but I’m glad I did it with two mates. Not purely for safety, but also socially, financially and also for general convenience.

I appreciate not many people have 2 mates crazy enough to travel West Africa with. The majority of people I met were either solo or with their partner.

Do you need French?

I have to admit, speaking French in West Africa will get you a long way. That said, I did manage with a very limited amount (but it wasn’t easy).

The longer you spend in the region, the more you can pick up. But the languages are split between:

• French
• English
• Portuguese
• Local languages and local versions of French/English

Is West Africa expensive?

Honestly, yes. West Africa is expensive compared to other popular overlanding destinations like Southeast Asia, Central Asia or Latin America.

Some costs are comparable, but if you’re moving at pace (like I did), you end up increasing your average daily spend significantly!

West Africa, is one of those places where you naturally move a bit faster because some places simply don’t have much infrastructure or things to do!

Is 3 months in West Africa enough?

Yes and no… Helpful right?

But this is what I mean…

3 months is enough time to see the majority of this whole region! Simply follow this West Africa itinerary and you’ll cover a lot of the highlights!

This amount of time is also enough, because by the end of the 3 months, I was mentally and physically exhausted!

I want to caveat this with the fact that I was probably more drained because of the speed at which we moved! If you have more than 3 months in West Africa, I recommend using that time to go slower and properly enjoy these places!

On the other hand, 3 months in West Africa isn’t enough, purely because you’re always on the move! Having that extra time to slow down and break up journeys is truly valuable and helps your longevity in an otherwise tough region to travel.

Can you backpack West Africa?

Yes, you can backpack West Africa – I just did!

But it’s not backpacking in a traditional sense… I think I only stayed in hostels in Ghana. Aside from that, there are limited options for socialising with other travellers.

You will meet other travellers! But I noticed the first question is often ‘why are you here’ since it’s so uncommon!

But it’s great hearing everyone’s unique stories, and when you do connect, it’s even more incredible!

What’s the best country in West Africa?

Believe it or not, myself and my two travel buddies ranked our experiences as we left each country!

Here were our averages across the 12 countries in West Africa. They’re by no means ‘official’ but they’re our honest views based on pretty arbitrary systems.

1. Burkina Faso
2. Mauritania
3. Ghana
4. Ivory Coast
5. Sierra Leone
6. Benin
7. Guinea-Bissau
8. Guinea
9. Senegal
10. Togo
11. Liberia
12. The Gambia

Burkina Faso came out on top. I think this was because of how surprised we were in a country that by many people, isn’t deemed safe!

Beyond that, the iron ore train carried Mauritania to a high rating. Whilst Ghana is a great place to travel full-stop – there’s a reason it’s called West Africa for beginners!

Biggest tips for West Africa?

What are the things that helped me the most when travelling West Africa?

• Whatsapp/Facebook groups: Having access to up-to-date information from other people currently travelling the region is a lifesaver!
• Carry extra USD/Euros: Great at borders, but having some extra can dig you out of a hole if needed.
• Share your location (with trusted people): Stay connected with people so they know you’re okay.
• Bring document photocopies: Mauritania alone used up so many of my passport photocopies, but the whole region has a lot of military or police checks so it’s handy to have some.

What would you do differently?

There are several lessons I’ve taken away from travelling West Africa, both with regards to travelling the region, but also on a personal level.

With hindsight, here are some of the things I’d do differently:

• Slow down: What I found the hardest about travelling this region was the fact I rarely felt rested. The journeys would be tough – tht’s to be expected. But when you arrive at your destination, it’s never simple! Accommodation, food, electricity, water, VISAs were always on my mind. Having less of a timeline and a few days to split things up, really takes the edge off. We had a few in Abidjan, Accra, Bissagos, Freetown and Dakar but I wish we had even more!
• Bring hot sauce: Rice is a staple across the region. Sometimes it’s super flavoursome (e.g. jollof), but other times you could really do with something extra. I found myself dreaming of hot sauce, but it could be any home comfort like tea bags or BBQ sauce.
• No cotton t-shirts: I almost switched to a football-top only wardrobe. Cotton t-shirts absorb more dust, causing you to sweat more and get ruined more easily. Sweat-wicking tops are a must in West Africa!
• Pack light: This isn’t something new, but carrying things I didn’t want to get rid of (e.g. ski goggles after the train, or a mosquito net just in case) made my bag that bit more awkward.
• Prepare for dust: Everything you own will get dirty on this trip. Dust, iron ore, sand, trash, you name it your bag will get covered in it.

West Africa was the hardest, most chaotic, and most rewarding overland journey I’ve ever completed. It tested my patience, my comfort zone, and my ability to embrace uncertainty. But the experiences – from sleeping on the Sahara iron ore train to hiking Guinea’s remote highlands – are memories I’ll carry forever.

If you’re considering travelling West Africa independently, I hope this guide proves that it is possible.

Before you go

Thank you for reading my complete 3 month West Africa itinerary. If guides, itineraries and travel content like this interest you, head over to my Homepage to find out more.

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Happy travelling!