How to visit the Afghan Market on the Pamir Highway
One of the most unusual experiences on the Pamir Highway doesn’t actually take place in Tajikistan – or Afghanistan – but somewhere in between!
Every Saturday, traders from both countries gather on a small island in the Panj River to sell everything from handmade carpets and gemstones to dried fruit, clothing and spices.
Visiting the Afghan Market became one of the highlights of my Pamir Highway road trip. Not because it’s huge (it isn’t), but because there’s simply nowhere in the world quite like it.
In this guide, I’ll explain exactly how to visit the Afghan Market Tajikistan, including how it works, whether it’s still open, what you can buy, how to get there, and everything else you might want to know before visiting.
What is the Afghan Market?
The Afghan Market is exactly what its name suggests: a weekly border market where traders from both Tajikistan and Afghanistan come together to buy and sell goods.
Held every Saturday on a small island in the Panj River near Ishkashim, it’s one of the very few places in the world where you can meet Afghan traders without actually entering Afghanistan or needing an Afghan visa.
The market has operated for years as a rare opportunity for communities on both sides of the border to trade legally despite the river separating them.
Walking around the market feels unlike anywhere else on the Pamir. You’ll find stalls selling handmade carpets, jewellery, traditional clothing, dried fruit, spices, gemstones, souvenirs and everyday household goods, while traders from both sides of the border chat and negotiate just metres apart.
It’s not a huge market, and you shouldn’t expect a polished tourist attraction. Instead, it’s a fascinating glimpse into daily life along one of the world’s most remote international borders, and for me, it became one of the most memorable experiences on the Pamir Highway.
Is the Afghan Market still open?
UPDATE (2026): The market is currently closed to foreign tourists.
When I visited in 2025, the Afghan Market was operating as normal every Saturday.
That said, it’s one of those attractions where it’s worth checking current conditions before making the journey. Because the market relies on cooperation between Tajik and Afghan authorities, it has been temporarily closed several times due to border restrictions, political changes, and security concerns.
If you’re already travelling the Pamir Highway, I’d recommend asking your accommodation in Khorog or Ishkashim a few days beforehand, as they’ll almost always know whether the market is running that week.
Whilst you can make plans, be prepared for the possibility that the market won’t be on, even if you arrive on a Saturday.
Even if the market happens to be closed, Ishkashim is still worth visiting. The surrounding Wakhan Valley is one of the most spectacular parts of the Pamir Highway, with incredible mountain scenery, ancient fortresses, hot springs and uninterrupted views across the Panj River into Afghanistan.
Where is the Afghan Market?
The Afghan Market is located near the Ishkashim border crossing between Tajikistan and Afghanistan. (On Google, Ishkashim is noted as Eshkashem).
Although it’s commonly called the “Afghan Market”, you won’t officially enter Afghanistan! In fact, it actually sits on a small, no-mans-land island in the Panj River between Tajikistan and Afghanistan.
Most travellers visit as part of a broader Pamir Highway or Wakhan Corridor itinerary, usually stopping in Ishkashim after travelling through Khorog. The market is not located directly on the main Pamir Highway (M41), so you will need to make a detour into the Wakhan Valley.
How to get to the Afghan Market?
From Khorog, Ishkashim is around 110km away. Due to the mountain roads, the journey is slow, often taking around 3-4 hours depending on road conditions, weather, and photo stops you along the way.
Fortunately, the drive is arguably one of the highlights. The road follows the Panj River, with Afghanistan visible on the opposite bank for much of the journey. It is a surreal experience seeing villages, mountains, and daily life on the other side of the river while travelling through one of the most remote corners of Central Asia.
My experience at the Afghan Market
Nothing quite prepares you for how chaotic the Afghan Market feels.
I arrived at the Afghan market late morning after a ~3 hour drive from Khorog. We parked our vehicle in a space at the side of the road, before walking towards the main fence on the Tajik side.
There were military personnel at the gate, so we handed over our passports for inspection. After a couple of questions about our purpose for the visit, they let us in.
We crossed the bridge, both excited and apprehensive, unsure what to expect.
As we got closer to the main entrance (marked by a Tajik flag), we began to hear more noise, see more people and smell more smoke.
Within seconds, it felt chaotic. Traders shouting, people squeezing past carrying huge bags of goods, and the smell of grilled meat drifting across the market. It was a complete assault on the senses.
With so many people moving in different directions, we naturally split up into smaller groups to explore separately. For this reason, I highly recommend having a meeting point in case you get lost.
The Afghan Market itself looked like it was split into sections – though I’m still unsure exactly what they are. The indoor shelters held a mix of products, but I found mainly food and cooking-related items.
Meanwhile, there were even more vendors outside, with products laid out on mats on the floor.
One of the things that surprised me most was how little the market was aimed at tourists. People were there to genuinely buy and sell everyday goods. Blankets, cooking equipment, clothes, sacks of food, and household items changed hands constantly. We simply happened to be watching it unfold.
One of my favourite parts was the people cooking street food. Honestly, it was some of the best shashlik/brochettes/skewers I’ve ever tried! It also opened more opportunity to speak and interact with local people!
Throughout the experience, people came up to speak to us or ask for photos. English isn’t particularly common, but several people do speak it, which was helpful.
Whilst women are allowed into the market, there were not very many Tajik women, and even fewer from Afghanistan.
As the weather began to close in, we made our exit. The market didn’t show any signs of slowing down as it’s such a big thing in the region and some of the only international trade opportunities in the area!
Tips for the Afghan Market
There’s not much information online about the Afghan Market on the Pamir Highway, so I came into the experience with a lot of questions. So here are some helpful tips:
- Dress respectfully: I recommend long clothing (and headscarves for women).
- Confirm timings in advance: For various reasons, the market doesn’t run every weekend. Confirm locally if the market is going ahead and the exact timings.
- Print your GBAO Permit: They will check this and your passport on arrival at the market.
- Currency: Both Tajik Somoni and US Dollars are widely accepted inside the market.
- Carry small notes: Whichever currency you choose (somoni preferred), I recommend bringing cash in small notes.
- Mobile signal is unreliable: As you might expect in a border zone in the mountains, service can be limited. Stick together if you’re in a group.
- Permission for photos: Be respectful when taking photos and ask for permission. From my experience, people were largely content (and wanted more), but a handful declined.
- Safety: Stay up to date with local travel advisories and make sensible decisions according to official advice.
FAQs
When is the best time to visit the Afghan Market?
The best time to visit the Afghan Market is during the warmer months, generally from May to October, when roads through the Pamirs are more accessible.
Summer is the most popular period for travelling the Pamir Highway, with July and August offering the best chance of good weather.
The shoulder seasons (May-June and September-October) can be a great option if you want fewer travellers and cooler temperatures, although weather conditions can be less predictable. I personally visited in June, which worked well, but was cold!
I do not recommend tackling the Pamir Highway during the winter months.
How long should you spend at the Afghan Market?
I spent a couple of hours exploring the market, speaking to people, eating food and snapping photos.
I would say 1.5-3 hours is enough, depending on your level of curiosity. You’re unlikely to be interested in buying something from every stall!
Is the Afghan Market safe to visit?
For travellers visiting from the Tajikistan side of the border, the Afghan Market is generally considered a safe experience when operating normally.
You do not enter Afghanistan, and the market takes place in a controlled border area which is (supposedly) de-militarised.
That said, the situation around the Afghan border can change quickly, so it is important to check current travel advice before visiting.
My personal experience was great (so I can’t comment beyond that). There was no moment when I felt unsafe, and the people were both curious and friendly. The female travellers that I was with also agreed, but were particularly conscious of the lack of women in the market.
What can you buy at the Afghan Market?
The market is known for traditional Afghan goods and handmade items, including clothing, jewellery, textiles, handicrafts, and souvenirs.
However, what surprised me was that it was also used for the sale of more utilitarian goods. Things like pillows, blankets, and utensils that people in Afghanistan needed.
You might also find children trying to sell you Afghan currency as a souvenir. Great if you’re a currency collector, but an awful exchange rate if not!
Most travellers (like myself) visit less for shopping and more for the cultural experience of seeing cross-border trade between Tajik and Afghan communities in such a remote part of the world!
What to wear at the Afghan Market
It is important to dress appropriately and respectfully in the market. You’ll likely draw attention anyway, but you don’t want to stand out too much!
Long trousers and a long-sleeve top work great, plus a head scarf for women.
When is the Afghan Market?
The market takes place on Saturdays.
The ideal time to arrive is probably early to mid-morning. So if you’re coming from Khorog, it’ll be an early start!
That said, as of early 2026, the market has been closed to foreigners.
Can tourists visit the Afghan Market?
Yes, foreign tourists have historically been able to visit the Afghan Market on the Tajik side of the border. You do not cross into Afghanistan; instead, Afghan traders traditionally cross over to sell goods at the market area near the border.
However, access depends on the current border situation, local regulations, and whether the market is operating during your visit.
Do you need a guide to visit the Afghan Market?
While it is possible to visit independently, having a local guide makes the experience much smoother – especially if there’s uncertainty about whether it’s on.
Having a local driver will help with communication, arranging your visit, and understanding any border requirements. Hence, the Afghan Market is often added as a stop for existing Pamir Highway tours.
If you are visiting independently, just make sure you have all the right documents and permits with you, and be prepared to answer a few more questions.
Do you need a permit to visit the Afghan Market?
Most travellers visiting the Afghan Market will need the relevant permits required for travelling through the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region (GBAO).
The GBAO permit is required for many areas of eastern Tajikistan, including parts of the Pamir Highway and Wakhan Corridor. Officials and military checked our passports and permits on multiple occasions along the highway, then again as we entered the market.
I applied for my GBAO permit along with my Tajikistan VISA application (costing a few dollars more). It usually appears as a GBAO stamp on your VISA.
Aside from the GBAO permit and your passport, you shouldn’t need any other documents (e.g. Afghanistan VISA).
That said, requirements can change suddenly, so check the latest rules before travelling.
Can you enter Afghanistan?
If you are entering the market from the Tajik side, you will not be able to cross the border into Afghanistan.
The market itself sits on an island between the two countries. Therefore, this does not count as entering Afghanistan (despite its name). Sorry to all those country counters out there!
Is the Afghan Market worth visiting?
If you are already travelling through the Wakhan Corridor or completing the Pamir Highway, the Afghan Market is absolutely worth adding to your itinerary.
It was so utterly unique and one of the highlights of my entire Pamir trip!
The market itself is relatively small, but the experience of standing on the edge of Afghanistan and meeting local traders in one of the world’s most remote regions is what really made it memorable.
I wouldn’t necessarily travel all that way purely for the market, given how unpredictable it can be. Thankfully, the Pamir Highway has plenty more to offer!
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